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South Face of Arthur's Rock Rock Climbing
Routes in South Face of Arthur's Rock
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Corridor Project S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Blackish Blobs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Excellent Adventure S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Great Corner, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Great Variant, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rocksie Rocks S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Owl Roof S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Doom Corner T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Big, Bad Book T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Goldeneye S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Water Fountain TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mono Matt T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Kiddy Pool S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Front Gate T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Edge Of Time S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Intestinal Fortitude S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Right of Passage T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sunset (submitted as Mole Rat Crack) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sunday Morning Coming Down T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sunrise T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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| Elevation: | 6,553 ft | 1,997 m |
| GPS: |
40.5669, -105.1872 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 42,022 total · 283/month | |
| Shared By: | Ben Scott on Feb 20, 2013 · Updates | |
| Admins: | James Schroeder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Raptor Closures
Details
2022: South Face closures from May 15 - July 31.
Per Charlie Martz: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2021: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures starting March 15th from The Great Corner (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunrise. . . and includes the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail.
Per Citsalp: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2019: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures May 15 - July 31 from Blackish Blobs (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunday Morning. . . and these include the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail. Other climbing areas should remain open.
Per Charlie Martz: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2021: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures starting March 15th from The Great Corner (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunrise. . . and includes the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail.
Per Citsalp: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2019: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures May 15 - July 31 from Blackish Blobs (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunday Morning. . . and these include the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail. Other climbing areas should remain open.
Access Issue: 2017 Raptor Closures
Details
Per garrett K: The South face of Arthur's Rock is currently CLOSED for raptor nesting as of 4/7/17.
Per Rodney Ley 1: as of 21 May 2016, there is a Prairie Falcon (possibly Peregrine) nest with eggs at the top of this route (Sunday Morning Coming Down) area. The Lory State Park staff have placed a "Trail Closed" sign near the approach, but they don't mention it is for raptor protection.
Please avoid until mid-summer, perhaps the park staff will remove the sign when the birds have moved on.
Per Rodney Ley 1: as of 21 May 2016, there is a Prairie Falcon (possibly Peregrine) nest with eggs at the top of this route (Sunday Morning Coming Down) area. The Lory State Park staff have placed a "Trail Closed" sign near the approach, but they don't mention it is for raptor protection.
Please avoid until mid-summer, perhaps the park staff will remove the sign when the birds have moved on.
Description
The South Face of Arthur's Rock is an incredible, 150-200 foot, overhanging, granite dome. Fort Collins locals have climbed on this obvious cliff ever since Lory State Park opened in 1975.
The climbing on Arthur's Rock is generally traditional in nature, with most climbs following obvious crack systems with ample natural protection.
Thanks to the work of the NCCC with Lory State Park (LSP), a Fixed Anchor Initiative has been put in place. This initiative allows for the replacement of old anchors and installation of fixed anchors for new routes through an application process.
Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:
nococlimbing.org/guidebooks…
RAPTOR CLOSURE MARCH 15 - JULY 31
The closure is for peregrine's nesting/breeding on the South wall of Arthur's, above the trail. Essentially all routes east of, and including, The Great Corner will be affected, to include the climber's descent "trail".
All routes west of The Great Corner are unaffected by the present closure.
The climbing on Arthur's Rock is generally traditional in nature, with most climbs following obvious crack systems with ample natural protection.
Thanks to the work of the NCCC with Lory State Park (LSP), a Fixed Anchor Initiative has been put in place. This initiative allows for the replacement of old anchors and installation of fixed anchors for new routes through an application process.
Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:
nococlimbing.org/guidebooks…
RAPTOR CLOSURE MARCH 15 - JULY 31
The closure is for peregrine's nesting/breeding on the South wall of Arthur's, above the trail. Essentially all routes east of, and including, The Great Corner will be affected, to include the climber's descent "trail".
All routes west of The Great Corner are unaffected by the present closure.
Classic Climbing Routes at South Face of Arthur's Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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