Big Belt Mountains Rock Climbing

The Big Belt Mountains are a range east of Canyon Ferry Reservoir outside of Helena. The range runs from southwest of Great Falls to the Northern Bridgers. The central and northern portions of the range (north of Highway 12, between Townsend and White Sulphur Springs) hold the most interesting features from a climber's perspective. In particular, the canyons on the western side have abundant limestone outcrops and cliffs, and some of the rock is even good quality. Given the sometimes friable nature of the rock, most routes are bolt protected, although some mixed and trad routes have been established. Helmets are a good idea, particularly on newly established climbs that have not cleaned up, and in the spring, when loose rock created by the freeze-thaw cycle may be exfoliating.

Beaver Creek, Trout Creek, Hellgate Gulch, and Avalanche Gulch have the most developed climbing, ranging from short single pitch routes next to the road, to multipitch lines in the back country. The second edition of Central Montana Rock is the best resource for this area and purchase helps support route maintenance and local trail work through the Helena Climbers Coalition. As many of the crags are under active development, plenty of climbs are not in this publication or on Mountain Project, so climbers should expect to see unlisted routes. 

With careful route and area selection, it is possible to climb here year-round in all but the most snowy and cold conditions. Winter Wall in Hellgate Canyon is usually pleasant on sunny winter days. In the heat of the summer, it is possible to chase shade in all areas, but areas in upper Beaver Creek and Trout Creek are particularly nice. Many of these areas are also popular with the OHV crowd, and campsites (established and dispersed) can be busy on summer weekends. Hellgate and Avalanche gulches in particular can have a near constant stream of trucks, quads, and dirt bikes. For those seeking a quiet climbing experience, Beaver and Trout both offer the option to climb further away from the road.

Most crags in the range are under an hours drive from Helena, and around two hours from Bozeman. Dispersed camping can be found on the surrounding National Forest lands and developed camp sites are available at the Trout Creek trail-head east of York and in numerous campgrounds on Canyon Ferry Reservoir.