PRINT: Rock Climbing in Monument Area, Smith Rock

(v) Monument Area

Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

The Monument area is a lesser-visited part of Smith with a lot of adventurous routes (read: chossy) obscuring a few true gems tucked away in the towers. It's worth noting that even the gems are typically of a more adventurous nature than your average route. The past few years has seen increased development and various new 5.11-12 single pitch sport climbs have been put up at the base of some of the formations. The area is comprised of the Cajun Cliff, Victoria Tower, London Tower, Big Ben, Little Three Finger Jack, Puddy's Tower, The Cornerstone, The Monument, The Hank Wall, and Anglin's Buttress.

Getting There

Take a right at the bridge following the Wolf Tree Trail. (route to the Marsupials) There are various trails branching off left to different towers as you go. Pick the one that looks like it's taking you to your destination.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking toward the Monument Area from the Lower Gorge

Photo credit: Ashley Ziegler-Woodward, iphone pic

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Kevin Piarulli
Redmond, OR

2019 into early 2020 was an incredible season out there with over 30 new routes being established across the Monument Area from 5.8 to 5.13c, the majority of these falling in the 5.11-5.12 range. This area has become a prime fall & early winter destination at Smith. Feb 3, 2020