Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Secret Garden

International > Europe > Greece > Kalymnos

Description

This crag was mostly bolted in 2010 and became more publicly available in 2012. It's north facing so it's shaded all day and catches some wind. There are 30-ish climbs ranging from 6a+ to 8a+ (5.10b to 5.13c). Some of the popular routes are already getting polished but it's still new enough that I broke off a tufa so be careful hangin out below the climbs. These are very good climbs so expect this not to be much of a secret...

Getting There

Take the beautiful scooter ride over the hill as for The Beach, and at the last bend in the road take a left on a short dirt road (people also park along the highway directly). Follow the paint (blue dots on rocks) up and over the hill straight ahead of you (slightly right).

Routes from Left to Right

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
● Parthenon
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 2
● Sunshine Boy David
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 33
● Pantremenos
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 12
● Tobias' Birthday Present
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 15
● Rooflianos
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 20
● Kalolimnos
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 13
● Nissos Pita
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 40
● Achinos
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 18
● Ricci di Mare
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 0
● Tzivaeri
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 9
● Baglamas
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 1
● Sam Suffit
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
● Markoutsi
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 1
● Magioros
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 30
● Remetzo
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 30
● Bratsera
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 34
● Margarita
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 12
● Dirlanda
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 8
● Syrtaki Lessons
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 1
● Savina
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 15
● Chien Jaune
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 2
● Full Job
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 0
● Half Job
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 36
● Pomponpidoux
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 5
● Route 69
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 52
● Melodrama
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 114
● Frapagalo
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 35
● Ballos
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 33
● Adolflahaut
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 21
● Ikariotikos
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 85
● Ricounet
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 25
● Crisis
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 4
● Princesse Marine
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 1
● Linsoute Nable
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 9
● Tricky Katie
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
● Apocalypse
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 0
● The Floodgates Part 1
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 0
● The Floodgates
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 7
● Stigma
Sport
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
 0
● Khaos (Stigma Extension)
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 3
● Bourre Mais Pas Pleine
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 0
● Silence of the Abyss
Sport
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
 0
● Abyssos
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 0
● Puffa Puffa Puffa
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 0
● Dogma
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 1
● Narcissus
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 6
● Kaly Diva
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 0
● Play Buzuki
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
● Mayumba
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 0
● Mayumba Extension
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
● Hyper
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 16
● Ymer
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 0
● Extra Secret
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Parthenon
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Sunshine Boy David
 2
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Pantremenos
 33
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Tobias' Birthday Present
 12
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Rooflianos
 15
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Kalolimnos
 20
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Nissos Pita
 13
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Achinos
 40
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Ricci di Mare
 18
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Tzivaeri
 0
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
● Baglamas
 9
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Sam Suffit
 1
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● Markoutsi
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
● Magioros
 1
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Remetzo
 30
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Bratsera
 30
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Margarita
 34
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Dirlanda
 12
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
● Syrtaki Lessons
 8
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
● Savina
 1
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
● Chien Jaune
 15
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
● Full Job
 2
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
● Half Job
 0
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
● Pomponpidoux
 36
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
● Route 69
 5
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
● Melodrama
 52
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
● Frapagalo
 114
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Ballos
 35
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
● Adolflahaut
 33
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Ikariotikos
 21
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
● Ricounet
 85
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● Crisis
 25
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● Princesse Marine
 4
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
● Linsoute Nable
 1
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
● Tricky Katie
 9
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● Apocalypse
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● The Floodgates Part 1
 0
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● The Floodgates
 0
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
● Stigma
 7
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
● Khaos (Stigma Extension)
 0
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport
● Bourre Mais Pas Pleine
 3
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
● Silence of the Abyss
 0
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
● Abyssos
 0
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport
● Puffa Puffa Puffa
 0
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
● Dogma
 0
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
● Narcissus
 1
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
● Kaly Diva
 6
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
● Play Buzuki
 0
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
● Mayumba
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Mayumba Extension
 0
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
● Hyper
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Ymer
 16
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Extra Secret
 0
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

I'd recommend NOT making friends with the ungulates... The ballsier ones (like this lil lady) then think they can rummage through your backpack while you're belaying. Clever gal.
[Hide Photo] I'd recommend NOT making friends with the ungulates... The ballsier ones (like this lil lady) then think they can rummage through your backpack while you're belaying. Clever gal.
Also, some fun cliff jumping downhill from the climbing. April 2014.
[Hide Photo] Also, some fun cliff jumping downhill from the climbing. April 2014.
Secret Garden is awesome.
[Hide Photo] Secret Garden is awesome.
Happily swinging after cleaning a route at the Secret Garden
[Hide Photo] Happily swinging after cleaning a route at the Secret Garden
Glamour shot from Secret Garden. This place is amazing!!!
[Hide Photo] Glamour shot from Secret Garden. This place is amazing!!!
View on the parking area, from the trail (walking back from the crag)
[Hide Photo] View on the parking area, from the trail (walking back from the crag)
Tufa maddness at Secret Garden.
[Hide Photo] Tufa maddness at Secret Garden.
Secret Garden is not much of a sacred these days, a bit polished on the classics :-)
[Hide Photo] Secret Garden is not much of a sacred these days, a bit polished on the classics :-)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jim Lawyer

[Hide Comment] Should be called "Not So Secret Garden"!

Totally in the shade, and one of the best crag for hot days. Many routes tend to seep and drip. Dec 1, 2017
Brian Stevens
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] The climbing here is pretty good, but the goat watching is fantastic… Jun 21, 2022
Jérémi Grenier-Berthiaume
Montreal
[Hide Comment] Keep an eye on your bags: goats will attempt to munch away at your stuff multiple times throughout the day, even though there are tons of climbers around. Sep 12, 2022
Charles Yang

[Hide Comment] If you're the first person to walk on the trail for the day, expect a lot of spiderwebs as you round the corner and see the crag. Apr 29, 2024