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Elevation: 7,694 ft 2,345 m
GPS: 40.15996, -105.36613
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 965,392 total · 6,502/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 13, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description Suggest change

This is a set of 3 canyons that are the drainages of the South, Middle, and North forks of the St. Vrain River. The greatest bulk of the climbing to date is in the South Fork. The rock is granitic and at times on the coarser side. There are a variety of routes here, some traditional, some sport, even some ice/mixed. Most of the routes are shorter here, maybe up to 5 pitches in length. There is still a decent amount of rock to explore here. While there is some friable rock in places, the bulk is good quality. Poison ivy does tend to flourish in spots here, so the sensitive should be aware.

Per Athena G: consider covering your skin with protective clothing. Biting flies are invasive here and will bite you often. Do not use weak insect repellent. Wear protective long sleeves and pants. Limit exposed skin. Treat clothing with DEET, and use strong DEET as needed on other areas to prevent bites. Flies may still bother you. Proper use of strong insect repellent is essential to enjoy your time here. 

Getting There Suggest change

Most will drive up US 36 or CO 66 west to Lyons. From there, the forks diverge. The South and Middle Forks are accessed off of CO 7. The North Fork is accessed off of US 36.

Overview

Suggest change
With the help and prompting of John Marsella, we'll list these crags going uphill from CO 7 & US 36.

SouthSt. Vrain
Mile 3.1 North: Scout Rock | Scout Slab
Mile 3.5 South: Guard House | Guardian Rock
Mile 3.6 North: Dance Hall of the Dead | Turd World Country | The Shrine of Vanity | Atoll, The | Deadman's Gulch | Deadman's Gulch Boulder
Mile 3.8 South: Mushroom Massif
Mile 3.9 South: Area 51 | Desdimona
Mile 4.2 North: Kids' Wall
Mile 4.3 North: Backstage Wall | December Wall
Mile 4.4 South: The Cliffs of Insanity
Mile 4.4 North: P. Mosh Wall
Mile 4.5 North: The Thinker
Mile 4.5 South: The Sentinel
Mile 4.6 North: Roadside Rock
Mile 4.9 South: Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs
Mile 5.0 South: The Throne
Mile 5.1 North: Observatory Rock | Upper Infirmary Slabs | Lower Infirmary Slabs | Left Infirmary Slab
Mile 5.3 North: North Narrows Slabs
Mile 5.5 North: Vrain Dead
Mile 5.5 South: Mechanical Man | Swift Rock
Mile 5.6 South: Rapids Rock
Mile 6.0 South: The Spire
Mile 6.5 North: The Monkey Skull
Mile 7.0 South: The Acrophile | Mystery Rock
Mile 7.0 North: The Hobo Car
Mile 7.2 South: Trojan Bunny Buttress
Mile 7.7 South: Arch of Titus | The Coliseum
Mile 8.1 North: ?Drill Affair?, 5.8
Mile 9.1 South: The Fang
Mile 10.4 South: The Watchtower

Middle Fork of St. Vrain - off of CO 72 going south from CO 7
Mile ~14 south on CO 72: Piz Cengalo
Mile 14.4, south on CO 72 -> "a few miles" East: Piz Badille


North St. Vrain off of US 36

Lyons Area
Longmont Reservoir Area (aka Buttonrock)
Tomato Rock

Pinewood Area
Pinewood Boulders, Tomato Rock
Button Rock (aka Pinewood Rock)

Big Meadows Area
Raven's Roost
Coulson Gulch - 2.9 mile hike from Johnny Park off CO 66.
Pierson Point - approached from CO 7.

706 Total Climbs

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Location: St. Vrain Canyons Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at St. Vrain Canyons

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V10 7C+
 9
Get Over It
Boulder
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 104
Sunshine Dihedral
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 132
Upside The Cranium
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 193
Introducing Meteor Dad
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 25
Pocket Hercules
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 293
Redneck Hero
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
 52
Neurosurgeon
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 89
Temptation Arete
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 36
Big, Big, Monkey Man
Trad
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 49
Old Yellar
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 56
New Horizon
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 40
Botany of Desire
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 21
Brother From Another Planet
Sport
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 36
Le Diamant E'ternal
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 11
Aquadarius
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Get Over It N Fork of the S… > Big Elk Meadows… > Double Trouble Boulder
 9
V10 7C+ Boulder
Sunshine Dihedral S Fork of St Vr… > Monkey Skull
 104
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Upside The Cranium S Fork of St Vr… > Monkey Skull
 132
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Introducing Meteor Dad N Fork of the S… > Longmont Reserv… > River Wall II
 193
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Pocket Hercules N Fork of the S… > Longmont Reserv… > River Wall II
 25
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Redneck Hero N Fork of the S… > Longmont Reserv… > River Wall II
 293
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Neurosurgeon N Fork of the S… > Longmont Reserv… > River Wall II
 52
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R Trad
Temptation Arete S Fork of St Vr… > Trojan Bunny Buttress
 89
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Big, Big, Monkey Man N Fork of the S… > Longmont Reserv… > River Wall II
 36
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Old Yellar N Fork of the S… > Longmont Reserv… > Old Yellar Dome
 49
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
New Horizon N Fork of the S… > Longmont Reserv… > River Wall II
 56
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Botany of Desire S Fork of St Vr… > Trojan Bunny Buttress
 40
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Brother From Another Planet N Fork of the S… > Longmont Reserv… > River Wall II
 21
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Le Diamant E'ternal N Fork of the S… > Longmont Reserv… > River Wall II
 36
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport
Aquadarius N Fork of the S… > Longmont Reserv… > River Wall II
 11
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in St. Vrain Canyons »

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