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Sunshine Buttress (aka Wichita Wall) Rock Climbing
Routes in Sunshine Buttress (aka Wichita Wall)
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Reflections T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wichita Skyline T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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"Unnamed Arete" S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Jam Crack Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Above All T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Jack Straw T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Kanarado Korner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Scotch on the Rocks S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Free Fall T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Swinger's Convention T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Zig Zag T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Gecko, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Can Do T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Cerebellum T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Split Decision S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Goofer's Roof T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dirty Sanchez T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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Shannon's Bloody Leg V3-4 6A+ |
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| Elevation: | 9,420 ft | 2,871 m |
| GPS: |
39.57091, -106.11832 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 31,406 total · 202/month | |
| Shared By: | Rob Griz on Aug 13, 2012 | |
| Admins: | Joey Chicharrones, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
This is a south-facing, multi-pitch wall that is comprised of slab, face, and roofs. It may also be known as the Sunshine Wall. It gets excellent sun and is perfect for late Spring through Fall. The rock is high quality gneiss with some exfoliation on the slabby areas. It is only 1/4 mile away from the popular White Cliff and is soon to be a similar, popular destination. I have divided the wall into 3 areas, West, Central, and East walls. Unlike White Cliff, the West and Central walls are not recommended for dogs or kids as a slip here would result in a 60-100'+ fall down steep slabs and ledges. It seems that Wichita Wall also hosts a few more challenging lines as compared to White Cliff. The approach talus is large, stable, and lichen covered but, when wet, acts like ice.
The majority of the climbing here is MIXED, and a standard, single set of cams and nuts are needed for leading some of the routes here. Since this is a multi-pitch area and I have set up the 1st pitches with anchors, keep in mind that toproping is acceptable so long as you are not impeding the opportunity for other climbers to lead through to the upper pitches. Please be courteous and allow climbers to lead through so that they may access the routes above. This pertains to routes like Scotch on the Rocks and the 1st pitch of Free Fall.
L->R:
A. Reflections, 10+, 2p, 180', gear.
above and right of A. Wichita Skyline, 10, 1p, bolts.
above and right of A. Unnamed Arete, 9+, 1p, 70', bolts & gear.
B? Above All, 9+, 2p?, solo or TR?
C. Jackstraw, 10+, 2p.
above & right of C. Kanarado Korner / Jam Crack Route, 10, 1p, bolts & gear.
D. Scotch On The Rocks, 7, 1p, 100', bolts.
E? Paradise Lost, 6 R, 2p?
F. Free Fall, 10, 2p, bolts & gear.
G. Zig Zag / Gully, 6, 3p, gear.
H. The Gecko, 9, 1p, 120', bolts & gear.
above H. Can Do, 7, 1p, 70', gear.
I1? Cerebellum, 7 R, 1p, 120', gear.
I2? Variation, 9 R.
JH. Split Decision, 11, 1p, bolts.
K. Goofer's Roof aka Roof Right, 8, 1p, 70', gear.
LJ1. Center Roof, 8 R, 2p.
M. Dirty Sanchez, 6, 1p, 70', gear.
Click here for another topo and here for an archived guide.
The majority of the climbing here is MIXED, and a standard, single set of cams and nuts are needed for leading some of the routes here. Since this is a multi-pitch area and I have set up the 1st pitches with anchors, keep in mind that toproping is acceptable so long as you are not impeding the opportunity for other climbers to lead through to the upper pitches. Please be courteous and allow climbers to lead through so that they may access the routes above. This pertains to routes like Scotch on the Rocks and the 1st pitch of Free Fall.
L->R:
A. Reflections, 10+, 2p, 180', gear.
above and right of A. Wichita Skyline, 10, 1p, bolts.
above and right of A. Unnamed Arete, 9+, 1p, 70', bolts & gear.
B? Above All, 9+, 2p?, solo or TR?
C. Jackstraw, 10+, 2p.
above & right of C. Kanarado Korner / Jam Crack Route, 10, 1p, bolts & gear.
D. Scotch On The Rocks, 7, 1p, 100', bolts.
E? Paradise Lost, 6 R, 2p?
F. Free Fall, 10, 2p, bolts & gear.
G. Zig Zag / Gully, 6, 3p, gear.
H. The Gecko, 9, 1p, 120', bolts & gear.
above H. Can Do, 7, 1p, 70', gear.
I1? Cerebellum, 7 R, 1p, 120', gear.
I2? Variation, 9 R.
JH. Split Decision, 11, 1p, bolts.
K. Goofer's Roof aka Roof Right, 8, 1p, 70', gear.
LJ1. Center Roof, 8 R, 2p.
M. Dirty Sanchez, 6, 1p, 70', gear.
Click here for another topo and here for an archived guide.
Getting There
From Exit 201 in Frisco, travel West on I-70 for approximately 0.2 miles (passing the old mine ruins on the right). As you merge into traffic, turn on your right turn signal and ride the shoulder. Soon you will come to a small, grassy clearing. Park here. You know you are in the correct location when you see the sign (soon to come) denoting the parking area marking the Wichita Wall and the Ding Dong Dome, attached to the old high-power line pole "stump". Currently there is an old shoe atop the "stump". Follow cairns up the large talus to a path through the aspens to the wall. The trail splits, heading left will take you to the West and Central walls, heading right will bring you to the East Wall. To gain the West and Central walls, the trail brings you to a 6 step iron ladder and fixed line. This leads you under the Central wall and continues on to the West wall, 60m left.
Classic Climbing Routes at Sunshine Buttress (aka Wichita Wall)
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun Angles Details:
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