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Scotland Boulder aka Haystack Boulder

Massachusetts > N Shore

Description

Perhaps this is the Northernmost bouldering in Massachusetts? A single, large, granite block offers a multitude of problems and eliminates in the V0-V3 range up to 20 feet in height. New problems have been added recently which could use some repeats to find grade consensus - harder climbs are trying to be painstakingly established. This is trying to be turned into a very fun hangout boulder. Some highballs are possible as well if you don't mind the choss or go during the right conditions.

Getting There

The boulder is located on the southern edge of Newburyport just off Route I-95. Take I-95 to Exit 83 (old exit 56). From the south, take a right off the off-ramp onto Scotland Road. From the North, take a left off the off-ramp onto Scotland Road. Take Scotland Road just a few hundred yards to a small dirt parking lot on the right (just across the street from the State Police). There is a sign for the Downfall Wildlife Management Area. Follow the trail from the sign 200 yards into the woods to the boulder. You can't miss it!

Routes from Left to Right

V3-4 6A+
 7
● Waldo's Warf
Boulder
V1 5
 1
● Kool Thing
Boulder
V0 4
 4
● Begone Choss
Boulder
V0+ 4+
 3
● Rick Choss
Boulder
V2 5+
 4
● Yosemini
Boulder
V1-2 5
 3
● Arrowhead
Boulder
V2 5+
 6
● Spider Hut
Boulder
V1 5
 4
● Dragonfly
Boulder
V2 5+
 1
● Sit to Dragonfly
Boulder
V3 6A
 5
● Stinky Britches
Boulder
V2-3 5+
 1
● Saor Alba
Boulder
V4 6B
 5
● The Yawn Wall
Boulder
V4 6B
 1
● Centurion
Boulder
V3+ 6A+
 2
● COVID's Pastime
Boulder
V3+ 6A+
 7
● Eagle Claw
Boulder
V3 6A
 3
● Keep Swimming
Boulder
V4 6B
 2
● Swim Dodge
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Waldo's Warf
 7
V3-4 6A+ Boulder
● Kool Thing
 1
V1 5 Boulder
● Begone Choss
 4
V0 4 Boulder
● Rick Choss
 3
V0+ 4+ Boulder
● Yosemini
 4
V2 5+ Boulder
● Arrowhead
 3
V1-2 5 Boulder
● Spider Hut
 6
V2 5+ Boulder
● Dragonfly
 4
V1 5 Boulder
● Sit to Dragonfly
 1
V2 5+ Boulder
● Stinky Britches
 5
V3 6A Boulder
● Saor Alba
 1
V2-3 5+ Boulder
● The Yawn Wall
 5
V4 6B Boulder
● Centurion
 1
V4 6B Boulder
● COVID's Pastime
 2
V3+ 6A+ Boulder
● Eagle Claw
 7
V3+ 6A+ Boulder
● Keep Swimming
 3
V3 6A Boulder
● Swim Dodge
 2
V4 6B Boulder

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Right Side.
[Hide Photo] Right Side.
Watch out for the double crimper block that is about to fall off. It is marked with an X in the photo. This is a fun route though.
[Hide Photo] Watch out for the double crimper block that is about to fall off. It is marked with an X in the photo. This is a fun route though.
A problem on the South side (steep right side when walking in). Start on a crimp and an undercling, work up and right with some sharp pinches and sidepulls to a sloper, then top out a bit more right.
[Hide Photo] A problem on the South side (steep right side when walking in). Start on a crimp and an undercling, work up and right with some sharp pinches and sidepulls to a sloper, then top out a bit more right.
A view from the short approach.
[Hide Photo] A view from the short approach.
A problem on the Southeast side - low undercling up to a ledge traverse with bad foot holds, then climb up the arete to top out. I'm hesitant to post it as a route, because I don't know the name or FA.
[Hide Photo] A problem on the Southeast side - low undercling up to a ledge traverse with bad foot holds, then climb up the arete to top out. I'm hesitant to post it as a route, because I don't know the name or…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jwhite
[Hide Comment] Hey guys, this glacial eradic is called Haystack Boulder, and there is also another boulder with 2 easy problems hidden in the low brush area to the right. Apr 30, 2014
Sendy McSenderson
New Hampshire
[Hide Comment] The quality of the rock feels questionable. Jan 7, 2021
Mike Veazey
Exeter, NH
[Hide Comment] The rock quality is questionable. I believe that this boulder and some of the other boulders / outcrops in the immediate area (such as Devil's Den / Devil's Pulpit and Livingston Rock) are actually composed of limestone. Jan 16, 2021
Joe M
MA and NH
[Hide Comment] I think the rock quality has "improved." I am guessing that most of the questionable rock has broken off, as there do appear to be places were rock broke off. What remains seems solid and this is a fun spot for a quick session. Dec 7, 2022
JChepes
West Ossipee, NH
[Hide Comment] I lived in Georgetown for a few years and definitely had a few fun sessions here. My favorite was the looks I would get from the troopers across the street at the barracks when I would get out of my car with pads. Nothing to see here, sir, just going in the woods for a nap! Dec 7, 2022