Main Wall Rock Climbing

The largest and most accessible wall at Boxcar Rocks. Climbs are on the south facing (sunny) side of the wall. The routes run around 45-50 feet tall.

Most or all of the Main Wall now has bolts for anchors just below the top of the wall. In the past they were directly on the top, and subject to much vandalism. These bolts can be reached most safely by lead climbing an easier route.

Alternately you can scramble up blocks on the back/north side of the wall. You'll still have to free climb easy class 5 rock to reach the top and set anchors from the back. It is highly recommended to be roped up and wearing climbing shoes if you are going on top.

Routes from left to right:

Just right of the Whale Head:

* Moby Neil 5.6 G

* Locomotive Breath 5.10c TR

* Moby Direct 5.7 TR

* Russel's Ruin 5.5 G

* Cobblestoned 5.11d TR

* Bam Bam 5.10a TR: the wall immediately left of Pebbles crack. I think I noticed some bolts there.

* Pebbles 5.6 G: the almost-vertical crack. It goes up 3/4ths of the way up the wall, shifts slightly right at the horizontal, then resumes verticality to the top.

* Curt's Crack 5.7 G

* Snap Crackle Plop 5.10a (bolts)

* The Apprentice 5.9 (5 bolts)

* Autumn's Child 5.10a G

Margie's curves: look for the only Y-shaped crack on the main wall. The area between the arms of the Y is the Headstone.

* Margie's Curves Left 5.7 G

* Headstone TR 5.9

* Margie's Curves Right rating?

* Vertigo 5.9 R

* Retro Vertigo 5.10a R

* Birthday Girl 5.7 G (2 bolts)

* Kinesiology 5.6 G

This list covers most but not all climbs we saw there in winter 2012. More face lines are bolted now than I have listed here. The obvious crack climbs are all named in this list, and graded 5.5 to 5.7 G. The farthest left crack was wider than others, and 4" or wider SLCDs might work best there. Most others look doable with standard 3" and smaller gear, unless we missed some surprises higher up.