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Sea Gully

International > Asia > China > Hong Kong > Tung Lung Chau

Description

Sea Gully is a popular alternative to Tech Wall.  It has a different sun/shade orientation, and many routes remain dry when Tech Wall is battered by sea spray.  Most routes were established in the 1990s, and bolts in this area suffered badly from corrosion.  A major rebolting effort has seen most routes upgraded with glue-ins.  Anchors will have rap rings or rams horns -- if you haven't used the latter, please read up before you use them.

There are a series of walls, but most of the action is on the right side of the gully.  The initial wall has a mix of routes -- 5.9 and up.  Green Slab is the obvious face, and a handline leads to the terrace.  Continue down into the gully for popular routes such as The Blade.  As you move further down into the gully, be aware that many routes are affected by tides, surf, and spray.  

There is a substantial amount of loose rock in the Sea Gully.  For the lower walls, remember that you have climbers directly above you, with the typical hazards of having someone overhead.  A pulled rope on End of the World, for example, can whip down on Roasted Pig and nearby routes.  As a result, helmets are popular in this area.

Getting There

From the campsite just past the toilets, head right on the trail through the pine forest. Take the left fork and head to the top of the ridge. A short walk downhill leads to the gully.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 0
Above the Sea, Below the Sky
Sport 5 pitches
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 8
The End of the World
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 2
Crossroads
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 1
Logical Progression
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Tai Chi
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 4
It's a Sin, Steal the Sky
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 3
Lung Tsang Fu Dou
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 2
Echo of Dog
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 12
Green Slab
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 2
Prisoner of War
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
New Breed
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Ah Lun's Route
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
The Blade
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 2
Wafer Wavers
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
Roasted Pig
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Above the Sea, Below the Sky
 0
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 5 pitches
The End of the World
 8
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Crossroads
 2
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Logical Progression
 1
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Tai Chi
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
It's a Sin, Steal the Sky
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Sport
Lung Tsang Fu Dou
 3
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Echo of Dog
 2
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Green Slab
 12
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Prisoner of War
 2
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport
New Breed
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Ah Lun's Route
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Blade
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Wafer Wavers
 2
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Roasted Pig
 4
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Wafer Wavers
[Hide Photo] Wafer Wavers
The Terrace at The Sea Gully
[Hide Photo] The Terrace at The Sea Gully

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] A few routes here have been rebolted with titanium, a few more have steel glue-ins with questionable glue, but the vast majority (most of those on the Terrace) have old expansion bolts that shouldn't be trusted.

There are several other routes not listed in Climb China that are off the main deck. However, HK tour groups like to use this area for rappelling and zip-lining, and so isn't an ideal choice on sunny weekends. Apr 21, 2015