Grand Auditorium Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 75 ft | 23 m |
GPS: |
25.10999, 121.922 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 10,418 total · 66/month | |
Shared By: | Nate Ball on Dec 4, 2011 | |
Admins: | Nate Ball |
Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closure
Details
Since 2016, peregrine falcons have made the Grand Auditorium their breeding ground. A voluntary closure is in place from Feb. 1st - June 30, 2023. This is not a legal closure, but a suggested one for respect of the birds. Since the viewshed of this area is wide open, they are easily disturbed by people approaching, especially from above. Do not take the Grand Auditorium trail descent, and please keep a conservative distance from below.
tocc-climbing.org/
tocc-climbing.org/
Description
This is an obvious and enormous amphitheater between Music Hall and Lower Dragon Ridge. From a distance, it looks like colorful, looming blocks split by bands of grass and dirt. However, there are some nice clean climbs amongst the debris for those willing to brave the razor plants and impending doom above. Oh yeah, there are snakes up here too.
Climbs face north, east, and south, and so depending on season and time of day, you will get all kinds of different temps and shade. Generally it will be entirely lit up in the morning and remains so into the afternoon. Very few people venture up here, as the climbs are few and far between, and generally pass through a lot of choss to get to the gems. But oh how those gems are worth it!
Starting from the left and most easily-accessible side, there is a section that can be climbed many different ways at >5.8. This will take you to the top of Dragon Ridge, which is an incredible viewpoint. To the right of this is a low overhang with a slab above. Several trad lines pull through or go around this roof to a shared anchor above. Continuing right, past an undeveloped section, you arrive at the inside corner start of Unknown Unknowns, a recently re-discovered climb. Several more routes all around this climb up to a shared anchor on the ledge above. Starting from grassy blocks, several of the most adventurous routes pull through the wildest features. This includes The Great Roof, a hardman's wet dream. These continue higher up the wall to a perch 2/3's of the way up the wall. Next are more grassy ledge starts for moderate classics such as Freedom Crack. Pass another, wider undeveloped section until you see your first lead bolts. This reveals the start of routes such as Arupa. Further on are the starts for Yellow Jasmine and Via del Drago, which is the last route before the rocks fall away and the trail wanders up to the viewpoint.
There is still a ton of opportunity for adventure up here!
Climbs face north, east, and south, and so depending on season and time of day, you will get all kinds of different temps and shade. Generally it will be entirely lit up in the morning and remains so into the afternoon. Very few people venture up here, as the climbs are few and far between, and generally pass through a lot of choss to get to the gems. But oh how those gems are worth it!
Starting from the left and most easily-accessible side, there is a section that can be climbed many different ways at >5.8. This will take you to the top of Dragon Ridge, which is an incredible viewpoint. To the right of this is a low overhang with a slab above. Several trad lines pull through or go around this roof to a shared anchor above. Continuing right, past an undeveloped section, you arrive at the inside corner start of Unknown Unknowns, a recently re-discovered climb. Several more routes all around this climb up to a shared anchor on the ledge above. Starting from grassy blocks, several of the most adventurous routes pull through the wildest features. This includes The Great Roof, a hardman's wet dream. These continue higher up the wall to a perch 2/3's of the way up the wall. Next are more grassy ledge starts for moderate classics such as Freedom Crack. Pass another, wider undeveloped section until you see your first lead bolts. This reveals the start of routes such as Arupa. Further on are the starts for Yellow Jasmine and Via del Drago, which is the last route before the rocks fall away and the trail wanders up to the viewpoint.
There is still a ton of opportunity for adventure up here!
Getting There
Approach from either Golden Valley trail or School Gate trail. From the north, after passing Music Hall, turn right and bushwhack upwards to the looming walls overhead. From the south, pass the second cave and Dragon Ridge, and turn left.
Peregrine Falcons
In 2016, a pair of peregrine falcons began nesting above the second pitch of Freedom Crack on the east-facing wall of the Grand Auditorium. A voluntary climbing restriction was instituted for routes 100m immediately to the left and right of that route from February until the fledglings leave the nest in July-August. In February 2017, they returned. Unfortunately their single chick fell from the nest and died. The voluntary restriction was lifted on July 1st. They did not return in 2018. We shall see if they try again in winter 2019...
Classic Climbing Routes at Grand Auditorium
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun & Shade
Routes Mostly Face: North · Northeast · East · Southeast · South
Sunny Roughly 6am to 4pm
during high season
6am
8pm
Weather Averages
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Precip
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Days w Precip
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Prime Climbing Season
J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
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Photos
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