PRINT: Climbing in Lower New River Gorge Bouldering, The New River Gorge Region

Lower New River Gorge Bouldering

W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge Proper

Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

In addition to the Cotton Top Crags, the lower New River Gorge below Hawk's Nest Dam has tons of amazing bouldering. The Hawk's Nest boulders are clustered around the dam itself, while farther downstream you get to Cotton Top, Cotton Bottom, and into the Dries. Be aware that river levels can change very quickly when climbing down at water level.

Getting There

Take the Mountaineer expressway (US-19) towards Fayetteville. At Fayetteville, take state road 16 North, following signs towards Hawk's Nest Dam for 7/8 miles. Once you cross a large bridge, there is a parking area on the right. Hike .7 miles following signs for Hawk's Nest Dam.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Squad rolling in fresh off the approach like an album cover.

Mark sticking the same dyno. All these photos I shot are on 35mm and developed by me btw

Rock Climbers or Cave Men?

Our Ex Fearless Leader looking like a boss. The boulder is the true subject of the photo though.

This place is scenic in the fall.

One of the guys sticking a dyno on some boulder at Hawk's Nest. The route started on a flake that flexed if you grabbed it wrong and I think that flake should not be used because it could break.

Lindsay sweeps off sit start bouldering at Hawks Nest dam, WV. August 2007. danallardphoto.com

hawk's nest, wv

hawk's nest dam

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tyler Barnes
Charlottesville, VA

Anyone know at what gage height Hawk's Dam becomes un-boulderable? Specifically, problems like White Eyebrow and Was That a Boob? I think the link below takes you to the proper page for the water level gage.

waterdata.usgs.gov/nwis/uv?… Mar 6, 2020

Nick D

If you're making a plan to climb a certain route at Hawk's Nest near the dam, be ready for your boulder to not be in the same place or orientation that is shown in pictures or the guidebook. Some of the boulders are on their side or not in the same place at all. Just goes to show the power of that water coming over the dam. Jan 3, 2024