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McGillivray Slabs Climbing
Routes in McGillivray Slabs
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Creature from the Black Lagoon S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Irish Mist WI3 |
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Morning Side S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Old Man's Rule S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tennessee Bushwhackin’ T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Trail Fairies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Waterhole WI3 |
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| Elevation: | 5,400 ft | 1,646 m |
| GPS: |
51.0464, -115.1899 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 14,223 total · 88/month | |
| Shared By: | Jordan Ramey on Aug 1, 2011 | |
| Admins: | Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry |
Description
McGillivray Slabs are North facing and just a hair west of Heart Mountain and before Dead Man's Flat. Located just East of Canmore. The slabs have a short 15 minute approach and several moderate climbs on solid rock. Reminiscent of Kid Goat, but more friction climbing. Several 4 pitch bolted sport routes and a few easy trad routes (Kahl Crack). Worth a visit on a short day.
The downside is the highway noise and looking at the quarry across the lake. There are certainly worse views out there though.
Routes from climbers Left to Right:
Gollywog (5.7R, 240m, 7 pitches, Howe & C. Smith, 1971)
Pythagoras (5.7 270m, 7 pitches, R. Howe, J. Martin & J. White, 1971)
Pixie (5.6, 7 pitches, R. Howe & J. Martin, 1971)
Imagination
Tony's Route (5.5, A. Shaw & F. Williamson, 1969)
McGillivraneering (5.9, 200m+, FA: Brandon Pullan 2005 rope-solo)
7-Up (5.7, First ascent party unknown)
Rubble Without a Cause (5.5, 95m, G. Powter & D. Chandler, June 1983)
Hiatus (5.8 70 m 2 pitches, B. Wyvill and G. Powter, June 1985)
Pitter Patter (5.8 6 pitches?, I. Stewart-Patterson & M. Toft, 1982)
Overhang Route (5.7?, B. Davidson & L. Drews)
Taiga (5.7, 170m FA: Brandon Pullan, June 2005, rope-solo)
Raspberry Ramble
Dirty Boys
Kahl Crack (5.6, 200 m, H. Kahl & party, circa 1965)
Morningside (5.7, 4 pitches)
Student's Route (5.5, A. Derbyshire & party, 1980)
Faye
and several others I haven't found info on yet
The downside is the highway noise and looking at the quarry across the lake. There are certainly worse views out there though.
Routes from climbers Left to Right:
Gollywog (5.7R, 240m, 7 pitches, Howe & C. Smith, 1971)
Pythagoras (5.7 270m, 7 pitches, R. Howe, J. Martin & J. White, 1971)
Pixie (5.6, 7 pitches, R. Howe & J. Martin, 1971)
Imagination
Tony's Route (5.5, A. Shaw & F. Williamson, 1969)
McGillivraneering (5.9, 200m+, FA: Brandon Pullan 2005 rope-solo)
7-Up (5.7, First ascent party unknown)
Rubble Without a Cause (5.5, 95m, G. Powter & D. Chandler, June 1983)
Hiatus (5.8 70 m 2 pitches, B. Wyvill and G. Powter, June 1985)
Pitter Patter (5.8 6 pitches?, I. Stewart-Patterson & M. Toft, 1982)
Overhang Route (5.7?, B. Davidson & L. Drews)
Taiga (5.7, 170m FA: Brandon Pullan, June 2005, rope-solo)
Raspberry Ramble
Dirty Boys
Kahl Crack (5.6, 200 m, H. Kahl & party, circa 1965)
Morningside (5.7, 4 pitches)
Student's Route (5.5, A. Derbyshire & party, 1980)
Faye
and several others I haven't found info on yet
Getting There
While heading eastbound from Canmore towards Calgary, when you get to the Lac des Arcs lake, park on the eastbound side of the highway just past a 95km / hr speed sign located just after the little lake on the right. There is a climbers pullout.
Hike up the climbers trail to a fire road and follow that uphill to the base of the crag. Kahl Crack is the giant crack visible from the highway. Morning Side starts just past the cave entrance (obvious, on main trail) and right of Kahl Crack. Several other sport multipitch climbs are located right by the cave, look for bolts.
Hike up the climbers trail to a fire road and follow that uphill to the base of the crag. Kahl Crack is the giant crack visible from the highway. Morning Side starts just past the cave entrance (obvious, on main trail) and right of Kahl Crack. Several other sport multipitch climbs are located right by the cave, look for bolts.
Classic Climbing Routes at McGillivray Slabs
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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