Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 4,700 ft 1,433 m
GPS: 39.6894, -110.0073
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 4,869 total · 29/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Apr 29, 2011
Admins: Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane

Description Suggest change

The Siren is a wild and intimidating 300' tower located in an unnamed side canyon in Desolation Canyon. At first glance the rock quality looks very poor, but it cleans up well and we were really impressed with the quality of the rock and the climbing. The summit is very overhanging on all sides.

I first saw this tower while on a river trip I took back in 2006. We named it the Siren because it has been calling to me ever since.

Getting There Suggest change

Float the Green River through Desolation canyon to Mushroom Camp at approximately river mile 69. The camp is on river right about a half mile below Jack Creek rapid at a beach below a big double trunked Cottonwood Tree. The tower is briefly visible from the river way up a side canyon just before the camp site.

From the camp, walk 10 minutes or so up to the cool mushroom shaped rock, which has some lovely petroglyphs. The tower is visible in the side canyon on the left. Walk an hour up a nice gravelly wash to a dryfall that stops progress. Here, you can either directly climb the dryfall via a highball boulder problem, or attempt to scramble up loose exposed rock on either side. Bypass a second dryfall by scrambling on ledges to the left, and then make 3rd class moves to climb a third dryfall. There are two fixed pins at the top of the first dryfall to rap from on the descent.

The tower is obvious after climbing out of the third dryfall. The approach takes two to three hours depending on how long you take getting around the dryfall.

1 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: The Siren Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Sun & Shade Suggest change

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

6,000 characters
loading