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Elevation: 229 ft 70 m
GPS: 20.7711, 106.9955
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Shared By: Ken H on Mar 18, 2011 · Updates
Admins: Alex R

Introduction Suggest change

Butterfly Valley or Lien Minh has the largest concentration of routes on Cat Ba Island. The land is private and owned by several families in the valley. Passes to climb in the area must be purchased for approximately 50,000 Dong/day (Approximately 2.50 USD.) You can purchase these passes at "The Hive" (a family home and restaurant) that caters to local climbers or at the Asia Outdoors (Formerly Slo Pony Adventures) office.

Butterfly Valley itself is an isolated area at the heart of Cat Ba island. It is home to around 60 sport routes (and more are being bolted.) The rock itself is tufa-covered limestone with a variety of overhung and steep routes.

Vietnam is tropical and muggy a good deal of the year, so it's recommended to bring light rain gear and bug spray if you're prone to attract mosquitoes. Since a lot of the routes are fairly steep, some routes will remain dry, even in rainy conditions.

Getting There Suggest change

There are two main ways of getting to Butterfly Valley, one is with a guide, the second is on your own. If you talk to Asia Outdoors you can pay for a guide (depending on how many people are working) to show you the ropes and teach you basic to advanced climbing techniques. If you're trying to maximize your dollars and you've climbed before, definitely opt for getting there on your own.

The most practical way of getting to Butterfly Valley is to rent a motorbike in the town of Cat Ba. Most or many restaurants will rent bikes for around 70,000 VND per day. These come with helmets. HELMET LAWS ARE STRICT IN VIETNAM. Wear them or you face very large fines, both as a local and even more as a tourist. Check the fuel before you go, you can fill up on the way to the crag. Approximately 1 liter should be enough to get you there and back. Be sure to check the price of fuel and show the appropriate amount of money to the attendant, otherwise, they will fill your tank.

The roads are narrow and full of curves and turns, and if you're not used to riding a motorbike, definitely ride it around town to get used to it. You may encounter tour buses or other motorbikes while riding out there.

As for actually getting there, Asia Outdoors has the new guidebook, which should have a map. You can also purchase a drawn map if you're not looking to get the guide. asiaoutdoors.com.vn/climber…

Resources

Suggest change
Lodging:
Most people stay in Cat Ba, and accommodation can be found easily since it's a tourist town. The land in/around Butterfly Valley is private so camping is generally not an option.

Eats:
The owners of The Hive are great cooks and can make you a tasty meal for around 70,000 Dong. You can organize this with Asia Outdoors, or directly with the family. However, their English is not fluent and it would be best if you had a decent understanding of Vietnamese.

Obviously, you can also bring your own snacks, Cat Ba has multiple markets, restaurants and a sandwich place to get your fix.

69 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Butterfly Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 17
Roots Reggae
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 21
Bread & Butter
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 32
Rome to Hanoi Express
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 33
Mother Butterfly
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 18
Argentina's Delight
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 35
Where the wild things aren't
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 39
You Enjoy Myself
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 21
Mustache Massage Man
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 40
Elephant Man
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 31
Very Tot
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 29
Cracker Jack
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 8
Windchime of the Ants
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 21
Buffalo Love
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 6
Thanks for the Memories
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 6
Dreamweaver
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Roots Reggae Gumby's Hangout
 17
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Bread & Butter Gumby's Hangout
 21
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Rome to Hanoi Express Pond Wall
 32
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Mother Butterfly Pond Wall
 33
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Argentina's Delight Pond Wall
 18
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Where the wild things aren't Center of the Universe
 35
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
You Enjoy Myself Cool Banana
 39
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Mustache Massage Man Upper Mantel
 21
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Elephant Man Center of the Universe
 40
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Very Tot Cool Banana
 31
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Cracker Jack Dragon Cave
 29
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Windchime of the Ants Pond Wall
 8
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Buffalo Love Center of the Universe
 21
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Thanks for the Memories Upper Mantel
 6
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Dreamweaver Upper Mantel
 6
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Butterfly Valley »

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