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Otter Lake Cliff

New York > Adirondacks > H: Southern Mountains

Description

Short south facing cliff on the north side of Otter Lake in Caroga Lake, NY. If you are looking for some fun bouldery sport routes without a crowd, then this is the place for you. Tallest climb in roughly 45' tall, some are only 30-35' tall.

Getting There

Park at the Kane Mtn. tailhead parking area on Green Lake Rd. in Caroga Lake, NY (near the small marina/gas station). From the parking area, walk northeast toward the reservoir and turn left onto the cross country ski trail that cuts over to Pine Lake. About 400 yards down this trail you will see a rock cairn on the right side of the trail. Cut into the woods here to head towards Otter Lake (This appraoch keeps you off of the private property for the 2 hunting camps on Otter Lake). Once you hit the lake, stay on the waters edge of the north side of the lake continuing all the way to the backside of the lake. Follow the climbers trail to the cliff. Total hike takes roughly 25 min.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
● Porcupine Prelude
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 2
● Porcupine Prelude, Variation
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
● Harvest Moon
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 2
● Harvest Moon Variation
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 2
● Roof Traverse Variation
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
● Roof Traverse
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
● Roof Direct
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
● Rubber Knumbchuck
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
● Pandora's Box
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 2
● White Arete
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
● Independence Pass
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 3
● Independence Pass Variation
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 2
● Approach Shoe Assassin
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 3
● Crimp Scampi
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
 2
● Dukes of Hazard
Sport
V7+ 7A+ PG13
 1
● One Second Suffering
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Porcupine Prelude
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Porcupine Prelude, Variation
 2
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
● Harvest Moon
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Harvest Moon Variation
 2
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
● Roof Traverse Variation
 2
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Roof Traverse
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Roof Direct
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Rubber Knumbchuck
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Pandora's Box
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● White Arete
 2
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Independence Pass
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Independence Pass Variation
 3
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
● Approach Shoe Assassin
 2
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Crimp Scampi
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Sport
● Dukes of Hazard
 2
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 Sport
● One Second Suffering
 1
V7+ 7A+ PG13 Boulder

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Roof Direct
[Hide Photo] Roof Direct
Andrew on Pandora's Box.
[Hide Photo] Andrew on Pandora's Box.
Roof Direct
[Hide Photo] Roof Direct
The Overlaps on the main face...pretty nice features
[Hide Photo] The Overlaps on the main face...pretty nice features
Boulder at the base of the cliff...holdsa nice V3 and V7/8
[Hide Photo] Boulder at the base of the cliff...holdsa nice V3 and V7/8
Mitch Hoffman leading "Porcupine Prelude"
[Hide Photo] Mitch Hoffman leading "Porcupine Prelude"
Sketch of the Cliff and Routes
[Hide Photo] Sketch of the Cliff and Routes

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris Duca
Dixfield, ME
[Hide Comment] I notice that all of the routes get a "PG-13" rating, though they're categorized as sport routes. Is there potential for ground fall on these routes? Jan 27, 2011
Past User
[Hide Comment] Wow Justin... you went on a rampage here... nice work! Feb 5, 2011
Justin Sanford
Broadalbin, New York
[Hide Comment] Ha ha...that's what you get when you have a boulderer trying to rate sport climbs! The climbs are well protected, but I have seen people stick clip the 2nd bolt on a bunch of the routes in fear of ground falls (although I personally have not seen a ground fall at this crag). I guess thr routes could be updated to "G"...need some more climbers opinions out there for sure... Mar 28, 2011
Matt Rhodin
Eldorado Springs, CO
[Hide Comment] Can somebody with the new ADK rock book update the approach? Apparently there is a much more detailed description now. Sep 19, 2014
Rob Burnett
Rahway, New Jersey
[Hide Comment] Has a few nice routes..spaced out gear...lots of anchors to setup TR but have to lead to do so...getting there, go to the end of otter lake make a left may see some orange flags along the way it's about 1/4 mile left (north) of the far end of otter lake, not a well worn trail! About 30 min hike from parking lot! May 23, 2020
Scott H
Southern ADK
[Hide Comment] When I visit spring 2020 it was easier to reach the far end of the lake (the Northern most part of the lake), and bushwhack left / Northwest following the stream / marsh until the cliff was in sight. On departure, we we able to follow most of the path back to where it branches off the lakeside path (about mid-lake I believe), however the turnoff from the lakeside path and the next 300' of the approach path were not marked. On approach, it was also a challenge getting from the Kane trail to the lakeside path (we saw no cairn); we mostly relied on elevation changes until the lake was in sight. Sep 8, 2020
Scott H
Southern ADK
[Hide Comment] The last bit of the approach, departing the lake-side path, is well flagged as of 3/28/21. Mar 31, 2021