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As per "San Diego Climbing Guide" by Dave Kennedy with Chris Hubbard...
Plainly visible from I-8 just west of the Hwy. 79 turn-off, Descanso has a multitude of routes, nearly all put up by Martin Veillon and his son Peter.
1/4" bolts placed in ground-up style here may not have hangers (especially the first one or two), and some routes are runout. Take some keyhole hangers, small wired nuts or other such devices to tie off these studs. Many routes require gear. The true classic here is
Into the Eye of the Son (11+). Many more routes than those given here have been established on the neighboring formations.
Mainly sport
Quality Granite
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Descanso Wall, for the size, packs quite a punch. On the East side of the wall there is a great section for those practicing trad or those brave enough to free solo. Going West from here you have a few sport routes with excellent steepness and overhung at the beginning. These routes are about 110-120 feet but can give you a pump with micro crimpers, slopers/friction and great smearing. Further west is Icarus 5.11a in the dihedral. And, basically, the further West you go, the harder the climb (i.e. the cave section with chain draws?)
Chow/Beer:
If there's one other thing that most all climbers have in common, it's a frosty local brew and some well-earned wholesome food. Therefore, I confidently suggest The Alpine Beer Company.
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San Diego
San Diego, CA
petertheentertainer@yahoo.com Dec 14, 2011
San Diego, CA
La Jolla, CA
Kernville, CA
El Cajon, Calif.
I along with others have 137 established climbs here, both top-rope and lead. Once again someone has come back here and added numerous bolts to my 1st ascents, some right next to protectable cracks-those responsible for any and all bolts added to my climbs need to remove them or else once again I will. I don't add bolts nor remove bolts next to other peoples 1st ascents out of respect for the 1st ascent as has always been the Stone Master rule. I put up many routes here and elsewhere without any or with less bolts on the 1st ascent and then returned to add others to make more safe. There's no retrobolting at Suicide and Tahquitz, J.T., Yosemite and this must be respected everywhere-most especially in an area where every climb can be top roped for those who don't feel they're safe enough for their level of climbing and risk taking. And no, I don't own the rock but neither do those who continue to disrespect the 1st ascent rule. This needs to stop now as I'm still here, as is my son and 4 grandsons and we will continue to have respect for others and expect likewise. To discuss you can try me at my work # 619-825-8166 or my cell # 619-318-9462 but as I will only be taking calls during work hours I may have to call you back from my land line at work because if you call me on my cell # if I'm not answering my land line then I'm making my site rounds and will get back to you asap. May 2, 2012
El Cajon, Calif.
I will be doing this in an attempt to once again make known what I've put up along with others that existing when I first visited these wonderfull sites.
Of most importance is that people need to stop adding bolts to other peoples 1st ascents, especially if they can be top-roped should you feel them to be unsafe or runnout.
And to put in bolts next to cracks and/or areas that will accept good "clean" pro is also not acceptable-a bolt is the last choice not the first.
Have fun, but we must all respect the rock, and the 1st ascent as this is the golden rule.
Thanks, Martin Veillon May 6, 2012
Thanks for your input and hard work on first ascents. There is a local "access fund" type of climbing organization that was formed here in San Diego (www.alliedclimbers.org). I am sure they would love to hear what you have to say. The meetings are the last Tuesday evening of every month (see website for specifics). Allied Climbers of San Diego have worked very hard on access issues throughout Southern California. This monthly meeting would be the perfect place for you to discuss your concerns. Just for a little background - The local climbing community is still reeling from a bolt chopper who left a lot of damage in his wake. However, the good news is that it left the climbing community unified as never before. So it is a pretty diverse group. Please bring you son and meet everyone :)
Regards, Randy Leavitt May 7, 2012
El Cajon, Calif.
Thanks for the invitation for the last Tues. 5-29-2012.
I may find the time to attend and please contact me with info and such on the location and time so that I can schedule for in and mapquest.
My cell # is 619-318-9462 and work # 619-825-8166 May 10, 2012
The Old Pueblo, AZ
Once you hop the fence at the west end of the parking area, continue past a telephone pole then white marker post on your right. A short ways after the marker, look right to find a small, low angle slab with the brush above marked with white tape (not my doing, but helpful no less) this is your trail. Feb 9, 2015
Does anyone know what happened? And why? Jun 28, 2015
There are new hangers on top of the main wall. No chains because you can hike back down. Aug 2, 2015
San Diego, CA
San Diego
El Cajon, Calif.
She also made copies of my topos as I put them all together on their large table, which brought the whole area into better perspective.
Perhaps I'll get with her to see if they want me to make several copies of my reduced size set that I had laminated and use to leave in a coffee can up in the tree at "Space Ramp", leave a copy up there again, and at the Ranger Station in Alpine along with the full size set.
With any luck, I'll be able to hike up there again this year, rather than just walk down the road, but hey, I'm still walking!!!
If you have any questions you can e-mail me at veillonmartin@gmail.com and for those putting up new climbs, let's add them to my topos and update them every year or so.
Same with Lawson Pk. and Stonewall Pk. Feb 28, 2018
Vista
San Diego