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f. Wizard Wall

Oregon > Portland & The… > Rocky Butte

Description

This is a tall, clean section of rock inbetween Bill's Buttress and the Far East Wall. It is somewhat neglected due to the less-than-obvious access to the wall. Nice thing about Wizard Wall is that it stays dry when when the rest of the Butte is wet. There are several good routes on this wall that are well worth rappelling in to. Phylynx and Mind Games being the standouts.

Getting There

Walk along the cliff-top trail Northwest from the Video Bluff. Look for a lone black hanger on top of a rock at the cliff's edge. This is the access point for the several of the routes on Wizard Wall.

Accessing the climbs on the Wizard Wall from the base of the cliff is possible by climbing a short (roughly 20') section of easy 5th class rock and gaining the belay ledge below Mind Games. This is the most common starting point for Eye In The Sky, Phylynx, Walk On Water, Mind Games, and Wizard.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 1
Naked Savage
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 1
[Redacted]
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 1
Grub
Trad, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 2
Eye in the Sky
Sport, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
Sky Walker
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 9
Phylynx
Trad, TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 2
Walk on Water
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 18
Mind Games
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 1
Wizard
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Naked Savage
 1
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad, TR
[Redacted]
 1
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Grub
 1
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
Eye in the Sky
 2
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Sport, TR
Sky Walker
 5
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Phylynx
 9
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, TR
Walk on Water
 2
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, TR
Mind Games
 18
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Wizard
 1
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Wizard Wall from the ground
[Hide Photo] Wizard Wall from the ground
What to use if accessing from the top.
[Hide Photo] What to use if accessing from the top.
Original guidebook
[Hide Photo] Original guidebook
Mind Games, Wizard Wall
[Hide Photo] Mind Games, Wizard Wall

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Fletch PDX
Portland, OR
[Hide Comment] A 70m is required to get fully to the ground, but there is a belay ledge which is essential. Easy rap in is on Wizard, which has mussies. Skywalker should be lead rather than TR due to the pendulum. Eye in the Sky and Grub have their
own independant belay ledge. Jul 24, 2020