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Sinbad Wall aka Nuclear Wall

Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek
Warning Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

A small crag with a short approach in the heart of the indian creek madness. Not as good as it looks from the road, but there are a few good routes. Most of them are short but its quiet and there are some good moderate routes.

Getting There

This is the next buttress down the road past battle of the bulge and before scorpion corner. Pullouts for parking before and after the buttress. The best approach trail leaves from the North parking pull out and follows cairns through the talus and dirt to the left-end of the wall.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 3
● Homeostasis
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 14
● Stubby
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13
 1
● Rope Around Yer Ankle AKA (No…
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 55
● Full Cavity Search
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 1
● Oppenheimer
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 21
● Friction Pig
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 8
● Numbing the Tip...aka unknown 28
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 38
● Unnamed Left Facing Corner with…
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 3
● Monticello Cop Shop
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 49
● Act or React
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 46
● The Violator
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 18
● Lady Bird
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 8
● Fallout Zone
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 2
● Yellow Cake
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
● Fukushima Release
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 44
● Meltdown
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 74
● Fission Quest
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 109
● Nuclear Fingers
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 67
● Tiffany's Mall Tour
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 46
● Road Block
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 42
● Unnamed Fingers in Left Facing C…
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13
 1
● Hey there, Hot Stuff
Trad, TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 30
● Sinbad Was a Dog
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 2
● O The Big Black Dog
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 1
● Brother O
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 11
● The Big "O"
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 5
● Mental fitness
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 72
● Spittness
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 128
● Hot Sex
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 2
● Breakup Sex
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 23
● On the Rocks
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 69
● Manifesto
Trad
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 12
● Peg Leg
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 22
● Walk the Plank
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 2
● Dirty Old Man Crack
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Homeostasis
 3
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
● Stubby
 14
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Rope Around Yer Ankle AK…
 1
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad
● Full Cavity Search
 55
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
● Oppenheimer
 1
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Friction Pig
 21
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
● Numbing the Tip...aka unkno…
 8
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
● Unnamed Left Facing Corner…
 38
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
● Monticello Cop Shop
 3
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
● Act or React
 49
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● The Violator
 46
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
● Lady Bird
 18
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● Fallout Zone
 8
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
● Yellow Cake
 2
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
● Fukushima Release
 4
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
● Meltdown
 44
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
● Fission Quest
 74
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Nuclear Fingers
 109
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
● Tiffany's Mall Tour
 67
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Road Block
 46
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
● Unnamed Fingers in Left Fac…
 42
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
● Hey there, Hot Stuff
 1
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad, TR
● Sinbad Was a Dog
 30
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
● O The Big Black Dog
 2
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
● Brother O
 1
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
● The Big "O"
 11
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Mental fitness
 5
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
● Spittness
 72
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● Hot Sex
 128
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Breakup Sex
 2
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad
● On the Rocks
 23
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Manifesto
 69
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Peg Leg
 12
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad
● Walk the Plank
 22
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Dirty Old Man Crack
 2
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

slim

[Hide Comment] the far left side of this wall has a nice concentration of fairly short, but fun routes. makes a good last day at the creek as the approach is short and the the wall is on your way out. Nov 8, 2010
Devin Fin
Parts unknown
[Hide Comment] trail on the left side at the pull out carins lead you up to two nice shortys. thanks to ed for helpen me with this trail.. Jan 5, 2011
Ian McEleney
Mammoth Lakes, CA
[Hide Comment] There is good parking for this crag on the east side of the road. It's 1 mile north of the Supercrack parking and 2.7 miles south of the Beef Basin Road. The crag is rarely busy. Though the routes are a bit sandier, this could be a good place to go with folks who are new to The Creek. Oct 29, 2014
MTN MIA
Vail
[Hide Comment] This wall has a variety of great climbs of different lengths. Many are super good quality.

Park on the left side of the buttress and take a good trail that spits you out right at the awesome Violator OW (5.11). Route is visible from the road.

The Bloom book is somewhat useful but not great for the area.

Routes #1-7 are pretty accurate, although I would give Full Cavity Search 3 stars as it is super cool.

To the right of Violator you have in order the following (not all routes are included):

Lady Bird (under big leaning block)
#8 LFD
#9 RFD
#10 and #11 share anchors (#11 is called Nutter Fingers [old plaque found])
For landmark--- next is the "tower"
#12 60' long LFD 5.11- *** super fun! route is above juniper tree
#13 this one is 20 feet to the right, above another juniper
#14 Tiffany's Mall Tour hands in slot to LFD
For landmark--- an old aid line?
#15 Sinbad was a Dog, located on prow by dead juniper
#16 tips dihedral, bullet holes at start, located after turning corner to the right, soil is grey here
#17 Slip huge pink LFD, looks awesome
New Route--- "O" the Big Black Dog, OW 5.11, 35m, **** super awesome and clean
#18 Bombs over Belgrade, a very dark LFD, 5.11, 28m, ****
New Route--- unknown, fists, OW, huge roof, more OW, super fun, rating unknown maybe 5.11
New Route--- Brother "O", OW, 5.11-, *** the wavy gravy of OWs, cool moves, 70ft
#20 The Big "O", OW, 5.10, ***
Spittness, 5.10-, (wrong order in book)
#21 Hot Sex, black LFD on top of terrace
A few misc routes follow next….. they are a bit hard to decipher.
#24 unknown 5.10, LFD, ***, located far right above a big square boulder

Any additional input to the above list would be cool. I really like this wall. Apr 17, 2016
Mark van Eijk
[Hide Comment] Thanks for the additional info Mia.

Found the bloom book to be pretty lacking for this wall. The routes here are far more spread out than we had inferred from the descriptions, and the topo is worse than useless as it lists routes in the wrong order with no regard for the scale of distance between them.

I'm attaching a crude topo with approximate locations of climbs we could recognize, identified by the numbers given in the guidebook. Hopefully you have an easier time navigating than we did.

Beyond that, pretty fun little crag which is highly accessible and rarely crowded. Many thanks to the developers.
crude topo of Sinbad wall
Mar 23, 2017
Matt B
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] This wall is also referred to as "Nuclear Wall" in the newest Creek guidebook, "Creek Freak", by Karl Kelley. I think this has to do with the name given this wall by the first FA party on the wall, but I'm not sure.

Also, there are a lot of new and excellent routes on this wall in the new guidebook that should be added to MP if someone has the time. I only add climbs I've climbed, so if someone wants to get sendy and update the MP page, I'm sure many people would be thankful. That being said, buy the new guidebook if you can. It's a great resource and is really well done. Nov 13, 2018
Karl kelley
[Hide Comment] So I blew it a little bit in the new Creek Freak guide book with the photo topo on page 84... Numbers 14-19 need to move left a few millimeters to be more accurate. Sorry about that! Nov 25, 2018
Dylan Fox
Albuquerque, NM
[Hide Comment] This wall wraps all the way around the buttress, making it have a good variety of sun/shade. The routes near hot sex are south facing and will be in the sun almost all day (in the fall/spring). The stuff near Tiffany’s mall tour/roadblock will come into the sun in mid/late morning and keep it most of the rest of the day. The routes near the violator will be shady all day. Nov 16, 2024