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Elevation: 285 ft 87 m
GPS: 39.77664, -75.54571
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Shared By: Justin Johnsen on Oct 13, 2010 · Updates
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Warning Access Issue: Permit required for roped climbing. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Alapocas Run State Park is Delaware’s most well-known and accessible climbing area in the state. Situated in Wilmington, DE, close to both Pennsylvania and New Jersey, this state park has more to offer than just climbing and is a popular destination for families, birders, hikers, and a variety of other outdoor enthusiasts.

Despite providing the community with over 415 acres of mature woods and trails, the Park has the climbing area on full display and it overlooks the beautiful Brandywine River. The Main Climbing Wall was born from the remnants of a former quarry which operated from 1870 to 1938 and provided the Wilmington Blue Rock, a gneiss, used to construct Rockford Park’s iconic tower, the walls throughout Brandywine Park, and the National Harbor of Refuge in Lewes, DE. Scars from the quarry are still visible on the rock and can be seen on many of the routes. Within those scars are a good variety of different problems for a climber of any experience to have a good day out.

The park was originally known as Alapocas Woods and only covered 123 acres, later growing to 145 over a short number of years. Spearheading the conservation of the woods was William Poole Bancroft, the noted figure of the early land conservation movements. Bancroft was especially dedicated to preserving the beauty of the Brandywine River for future generations leading to the establishment of other parks such as Rockford Park, now the premier Delaware bouldering area.

In 1999 the state of Delaware launched the Blue Ball Project to redo the roads around the parks and expand its coverage. Through the project Alapocas Run was expanded to cover an additional 145 acres of mature woodland, with an additional 70 acres donated as a conservation easement. (46 of the 70 acres was later donated in 2015). In 2002, Alapocas Run State Park was officially dedicated.

More information on regulations and directions can be found below, or by visiting the park’s website, here. For further information on the routes themselves click on the Main Climbing Wall tab, or utilize Michael Hartman’s free guide to the area, here.

Getting There Suggest change

Before your first visit, climbers should fill out a climbing permit and go to Blue Ball Barn to receive their free climbing tag. Climbers are required to wear the tag on their harness while climbing in the park and are encouraged to carry a copy of the paper permit with them.

Once permitted, you should drive to find parking closer to the wall. The Alapocas Ball Fields down the road from DuPont provide a scenic hike to the Main Climbing Wall, but may take too long (~30 min) depending on your gear load. Alternatively, climbers are allowed to park by the Wilmington Friends School near the Maintenance Yard of Alapocas. This provides climbers with a quick ten minute hike down to the wall, but climbers should remember to be mindful of the community as the parking is residential.

The Main Climbing Wall itself is unmissable, it has been updated with a bright white rock landing so it is clear what wall is meant for climbing.

Routes

Suggest change
This is a list of established routes on the main wall at Alapocas, from left to right.

Far left ground level:
Hungry for Me 5.5 TR

Middle ground level:
(under Dichotomy) ~5.3 to 5.6
(under Old School) ~5.6 or 5.7

Middle ledge:
Junior Slab (or Very Sticky Babysteps Up From Pullin' Plastic) 5.3 TR
Dichotomy 5.8 TR
Dichotomy Corner 5.6 TR
Bend Over and Take It TR
Scar Face (or Self Domination) 5.9 TR
Old School 5.7 TR
Old Grandmom 5.2 TR
Old Granddad (or Bob's Slab) 5.2 TR

Right middle ledge:
Chipper ~5.10? TR
Spanky ~5.10? TR

Right ground level:
"Warm up traverse" V0+?
Arena Arete 5.9 TR / V0
Rambo 5.12a TR or sport
Grey Streak 5.10b TR or sport / V0+
Temptation ~5.10? TR
Chossy's Corner 5.6 TR

These routes are from Michael Hartman's excellent guide, available free online from mhartman.net/climbing/ . To quote Michael: "Area names, route names, and grades have been preserved when known. Names and grades have been made up when not known. Let me know if you are aware of different area names, route names, or grades."

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Alapocas Run State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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