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Hayden Peak Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Hayden Peak

Aces High Tower 4

Eddie's High Somewhere 5

Estwing Crag, The 3

Iron Hayden Wall 16

Lower Left Buttress 1

Most Excellent Crag, The 4

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Elevation:	12,479 ft	3,804 m
GPS:	40.7333, -110.8496 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	90,562 total · 506/month
Shared By:	Craig Martin on Aug 28, 2010
Admins:	Jim Clarke, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

See the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest Service fee page fs.fed.us/r4/uwc/passes/ for more information.

Description

Hayden Peak is located on the Mirror Lake Highway. It is the unmistakeable peak that dominates the view to the East from Bald Mountain Pass. No hiking trail exists according to the Forest Service. The South Ridge seems to be the most used route to the summit and may be the Uintas best day hike. Expect lots of 4th class scrambling, some of it may be exposed depending on the route taken.

Getting There

Park at the Highline Trailhead in the Hikers parking lot. Locate a climbers trail to the northeast of the bathrooms. There is a tall twin tree stump that is visible from the parking lot looking to the east. This is your trail marker. Follow this trail through the forest alternating between traversing to the north and climbing up to the east. At treeline head up a shallow gully that is often snow covered until mid-summer. When the gully steepens, look for cairns and a trail heading north and switchbacking a few times before continueing its northward traverse. Cross a wide couloir and follow a rough trail up its left side, at the top head north across a short boulder field and onto a ledge system that traverses the west face. Make your way up to the cliffs. 1 hour approach.

Climbing

In my opinion Hayden Peak is home to some of the best multi-pitch climbing in the Uintas. There is a lot of adventure to be had in a very nice setting. This is a summertime crag to be sure. Climbing on the multi-pitch routes in anything but the nicest weather can be a chilly experience for the unprepared.

A few notes on Hayden Peak climbing.

Bring a rack. There are not many pure sport climbs. Even routes that appear fully bolted may require some gear. A good rack for most routes would be a purple TCU to a #3 camalot and small to medium nuts. A few more gear intensive routes exist and a double rack to a #2camalot plus a #4camalot would be more appropriate.
Most routes are adequately bolted and/or protected for the leader comfortable at the respective grade.
Generally speaking, the climbing difficulty tops out at 5.11+, with many routes in the 5.10 range.
1 60m rope should suffice for most routes. But be careful and pay attention because many routes where put up using a 70m rope and a few 2 rope rappels do exist.

33 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Hayden Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 88 ● Where Vultures Dare Trad, Alpine 5 pitches Iron Hayden Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 24 ● Aces High Trad, Alpine 5 pitches Aces High Tower
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 31 ● Beer Mule Trad, Alpine Iron Hayden Wall
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 11 ● Powerslave Sport, Alpine Iron Hayden Wall
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 13 ● Holy Smoke Sport, Alpine Iron Hayden Wall
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 9 ● King of Twilight Trad, Alpine Iron Hayden Wall
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 8 ● B.O.D Trad, Alpine Iron Hayden Wall
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 6 ● Wyld Stallyns Trad, Alpine Most Excellent Crag
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 14 ● The Evil That Men Do Sport, Alpine Iron Hayden Wall
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 8 ● Wrathchild Trad, Alpine 4 pitches Iron Hayden Wall
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 67 ● Sun & Steel Trad, Alpine 4 pitches Iron Hayden Wall
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 39 ● Run To The Hills Trad, Alpine 3 pitches Iron Hayden Wall
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 10 ● Brave New World Trad, Alpine 4 pitches Iron Hayden Wall
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 41 ● Up the Irons Trad, Alpine 4 pitches Iron Hayden Wall
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a 8 ● Ziggy Piggy Sport, Alpine Most Excellent Crag