All Locations > Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Big Thompson Ca… > Mary's Bust Area

Golden Hall Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map This is our best guess at this area's location.
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Routes in Golden Hall

L › R R › L A › Z

	3 Sheets to the Wind S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	GBD S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Over the Rainbow S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Pot of Gold S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
	Tres Cojones e un Cuernito T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

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GPS:	40.41555, -105.3761 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Orphaned User on Jun 29, 2010
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023 Details

Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.

Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.

Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.

I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.

Description

A rock corridor between the main Mary's Bust buttress and a wall of golden stone behind it.

Getting There

Three options:

1) Hike up to Moonlight Rock and traverse right (down canyon) on the ledge on the top of the Left Buttress. Clamber over a big boulder that rests above The Devil's Backbone to reach the base. The hike begins at the big north-side pullout on Hwy 34, and goes more-or-less straight up from the parking pullout. The gully is kind of gnarly and unpleasant; about 20 minutes.

2) Hike the normal trail to Mary's Bust, turn right, and head up the gully on the right side. A stream runs down this gully in the spring (can be icy in winter). About half way up, you should see a majestic cedar on a big ledge: Aim for the right side of the ledge, go behind the cedar, and continue along the exposed ledge to a mantle at its end. Above this, a short 5.0 slab must be negotiated. Continue up the gully and go through the pass behind Mary's Bust to arrive at the base. Also roughly 20 minutes.

3) Climb a route on the main wall or the Left Buttress. Sparky's Cooler or The Beak can be done quickly (combine pitches). Head right from the top of the route on a big ledge, and scramble up and behind the big boulder.

L->R:

Gold Wall

A. ??, 5.10- PG-13, 1p, 75', gear.
B. GBD, 5.11+, 1p, 80', bolts.
BC. ??, 5.10, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
C. Tres Cojones e un Cuernito, 5.12-(?), 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
DE1. Pot of Gold, 13-, 1p, 85', bolts.
E1. Over the Rainbow, 13-, 1p, 85', bolts.
E2. ??, 5.13-, 1p, 75', bolts.

Upper west face of Mary's Bust

F. ??, 5.10-, 1p, 55', bolts & gear.
G. ??, 5.10, 1p, 70', bolts.

5 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Golden Hall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 4 ● Tres Cojones e un Cuernito Trad, Sport
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c 7 ● Over the Rainbow Sport
5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c 4 ● Pot of Gold Sport