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Elevation: 1,058 ft 322 m
GPS: 44.02836, -91.62665
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 79,027 total · 435/month
Shared By: EB on Jun 14, 2010 · Updates
Admins: K Ice, Kris Gorny

Description Suggest change

Sugar Loaf is an iconic place in Winona, MN. Sitting approx 600 ft above Winona, the Sugarloaf is a unique man-made tower; a result from quarrying in the 1800s. It offers routes on all aspects of the tower ranging from 5.3- 5.11 in difficulty. The majority of routes are in the 5.6-5.9 range.

Currently 38 lead routes and a few additional top rope anchors with approx 1-2 more routes to be bolted. Most anchors have stainless steel wiregate biners at the anchors for easy TRing and cleaning. Almost all anchors are glue in bolts with the remaining expansion bolts slated to be removed by the end of 2017. There is a comprehensive trail plan approved by the city that will offer better access and develop the park as a designated Rock climbing area. Routes are listed beginning on the NW corner and moving right from there around the formation.

There are steel cables on the north face to assist climbers while moving through the terrain with smaller ledges and higher consequences. These cables are for tethering in while transitioning between routes and not for belaying directly off/ clipping in for belaying. 

If anyone is in need of gear for rock climbing or some ice climbing, you can rent some at Winona State University's Outdoor Education and Recreation Center WSU website.

Getting There Suggest change

At the intersection of Mankato Ave and Highway 61 in Winona, head south on 43 to a quick right hand turn to E Lake Blvd to a parking area with signs for" Sugarloaf Trailhead parking". The trailhead is behind edina reality. Please do not park in the Treasure Under Sugarloaf parking lot or Edina Reality's lot. All parking is on the side of the road.

42 Total Climbs

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Location: Winona, Sugar Loaf Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Winona, Sugar Loaf

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 28
Ramp Route
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 33
Franklin's Tower
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 24
Six Pack
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 23
Green Room
Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 26
The Exterminator
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 24
The Saga
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 21
Franklin's Direct
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 28
Keystone Light
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 24
West Face Overhang
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 16
Fear and Loafing
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 27
The Sherriff
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 39
Running Scared
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 26
Winona Alpine Club
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 23
Rope Thief
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 6
Sugar Loaf in a Day (aka WIAD)
Sport, TR 39 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ramp Route
 28
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Franklin's Tower
 33
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Six Pack
 24
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Green Room
 23
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
The Exterminator
 26
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
The Saga
 24
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Franklin's Direct
 21
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Keystone Light
 28
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
West Face Overhang
 24
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Fear and Loafing
 16
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Sherriff
 27
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Running Scared
 39
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Winona Alpine Club
 26
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Rope Thief
 23
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Sport
Sugar Loaf in a Day (aka WIAD)
 6
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport, TR 39 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Winona, Sugar Loaf »

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