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Practice Wall Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Practice Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Creeping Elegance S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Dragon's Tail T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Dragon's Mouth S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Crescent Moon S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Crescendo S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Another One Fights the Rust T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	A Happy Ending S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Handout, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Slabalito S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Shawty S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Low Exposure S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Short and Sweet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Slither and Squeeze T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
	Kate's 1st Trad Lead T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
	Acrophobiacs Anonymous S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	[Redacted] S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Sweet and Sour T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	[Redacted] S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Mercenary of the Mandarin Chicken S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Beta Spewer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Smear Tactics S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	BDSM T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Night Foxx S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Beastly Traverse T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Sheet Rock S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

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Elevation:	985 ft	300 m
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Access Issue: Land Owned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve Details

Officially known as Muir Valley Nature Preserve, Muir Valley is one of Red River Gorge's crown jewels. Originally the area was privately owned by Rick and Liz Weber, but in March 2015 the Webers gifted the land to the non-profit Friends of Muir Valley (FOMV), a 501(c)3 organization. FOMV is now 100% responsible for the ownership, in addition to funding and up-keeping the property.
The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $15 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.

Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:

All climbers must fill out a legal release form before climbing. muirvalley.org/waiver/ ;
The parking lot described in the directions below is the only permitted parking. Do not park on private drives.
No dogs are allowed in Muir Valley (nor left in your car in the parking lot.)
No hammocks are allowed to be hung/used in Muir Valley.

Description

Even if you've scoped it out in the guidebook beforehand, your first glimpse of the Practice Wall will probably be a little bit of a shock. Most of the routes here are shorter than the average climbing gym. But for newcomers getting their first taste of climbing on real rock, you couldn't ask for anything better. Short lines in the 5.easy range make nice topropes for beginners and kids, and a climber looking to do their first lead can gain some confidence on Acrophobics Anonymous (5.4).

Practice Wall isn't just a beginner's playground, though. Hardcore climbers can test their crimp strength on lines like Beastly Traverse (5.11a).

Getting There

From the parking lot, head down the trail as for Bruise Brothers or Sunnyside. After crossing the creek, take the first trail on the left for Joe Ponder Hollow. Watch for signage pointing to Practice Wall and follow the trail to the short cliff.

25 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Practice Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 102 ● Short and Sweet Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 185 ● Dragon's Mouth Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 115 ● Crescendo Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 94 ● Crescent Moon Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 152 ● Beta Spewer Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 26 ● Creeping Elegance Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 9 ● Smear Tactics Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 10 ● Night Foxx Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 21 ● The Handout Sport