PRINT: Rock Climbing in Zen Canyon, Linville Gorge

Zen Canyon

N Carolina > 2. Northern Mou… > Linville Gorge > Gold Coast Cliffs

Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th) Details

fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…

Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.

Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.

NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.

Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.

Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags Details

The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!

carolinaclimbers.org/conten…

Description

A nice wall of up to 3 pitches of climbing. The route "Buried Treasure" climbs the fantastic "bilboard" section that is very remenicant of the Fire Wall at Moores.

Getting There

This is the most up to date and accurate info for this area:

First, follow directions to the RJ that are listed on the main page.

From the RJ just south of Zen Creek, take the shared razors edge/Zen trail down (eastward) for about 1 minute and turn left at the fork. Follow the short foot path to the top of the overlook. There are two options now:

Rap from the top of Zen Point via the anchors on "Buried Treasure". Continue down and right to the point (north-facing wall) -- if you lay down and look over the edge you can see the bolted rap anchors. Scramble down and around to the anchors for the rap (2 double rope rappels to the ground).

Via gully Follow the same trail directions to near the overlook and look for a faint left turn. This takes you down and left and into the gully. A short scramble gets you to the base of "Zen Face".

For good smartphone-compatible maps, look here: lgmaps.org/?page_id=10

Routes from Left to Right

5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 1 ● Taos Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 2 ● Buried Treasure Trad 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 1 ● Unnamed/Unfinished Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 1 ● Waxed Woodpecker Trad 4 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 1 ● Galax rack Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 1 ● Unnamed Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 1 ● Flying Mouse Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c 1 ● Unnamed Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c 1 ● The Gunfighter Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 4 ● Zen Face Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R 1 ● Unnamed Slab Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 1 ● Decisions Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 1 ● Beatin' Around the Bush Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 1 ● Unnamed Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 1 ● Eddie's Corner Trad

● Taos

5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad

● Buried Treasure

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches

● Unnamed/Unfinished

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad

● Waxed Woodpecker

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches

● Galax rack

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad

● Unnamed

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad

● Flying Mouse

5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 2 pitches

● Unnamed

5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad

● The Gunfighter

5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad

● Zen Face

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad

● Unnamed Slab

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R Trad

● Decisions

5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad

● Beatin' Around the Bush

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad

● Unnamed

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad

● Eddie's Corner

5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Tony following pitch 3.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

darkbyrd

There is an easier descent into Zen Canyon. From the campsite near Zen Point, head west on a faint trail through the bushes to the canyon floor in 60 yards. -MJ Apr 20, 2014