Volcan Osorno Climbing

Volcan Osorno is a large, active volcano in northern Patagonia just by the town of ensenada. Its distinctive conical shape dominates the view at the east end of Lago Llanquihue, near Puerto Varas, Chile. Although the summit is only 2652m, it rises from near sea level at the lake and thus offers (potentially) 2500 vertical meters of climbing. However, a small ski area has been built on the mountain, and most climbers elect to drive to the trailhead at treeline, about 1300m. If you have only a few days to sample Patagonian climbing, Volcan Osorno is a good option due to its ease of access and the (relatively) uncommitting nature of the climbing.

Like many Patagonian peaks, the mountain is heavily glaciated but global warming has affected the quality of its hangin glaciar since 2011. Although a number of routes exist on the mountain, only two, the Ruta Normal and La Picada NF are regularly attempted. December and January are the most popular months for climbing. Earlier climbers may encounter winter conditions; later climbers will have to negotiate late-season glacier travel conditions. Winter is perfect for randonee but the descent fro SF gets very technical. From la picada is moderate but long exposition. You can also BC at paso desolacion and attempt Cerro La picada right next to osorno to the north. September and October are the favourite time to climb that ice by the locals,

Permission from the Chilean forest service (CONAF) is required for climbing on Volcan Osorno. There is a hut at the trailhead that is staffed in the summer months. Non-guided climbers are required to demonstrate that they have adequate equipment and experience, although this is not much of a hassle but CONAF rangers are going to ask for a proof of federation or mountain club affiliation. It is also helpful to have a membership card from a recognized alpinists' organization (e.g., AAC).

Guide services starts (about US$200/day per person in 2010) are available on the mountain. Huella andina are highly recommended. . Although lodging and camping are available at the bottom of the mountain in Ensenada, an excellent option is a bed at the Refugio Teski (www.teski.cl). This is a modest mountain lodge in the style of European mountain huts and offers bunks (US$20/night), a restaurant serving tasty meals, a dining area with superb views of Lago Llanquihue, and a small but well-stocked bar (cervezas US$4).