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Mammoth Crest

California > Eastern Sierra > Mammoth Lakes Area

Description

Beautiful and quiet alpine wall above McLeod Lake in Mammoth. Mammoth Crest is easily seen from numerous places on the drive into Mammoth Lakes and from various vantages around Lake Mary and Horseshoe Lake.

Consider getting Marty Lewis and John Moynier's great Mammoth Area Rock climbing guidebook for the area.

Getting There

From the town of Mammoth Lakes, head up Hwy. 203 towards Lake Mary. Follow the road (continuing past the turnoff for Lake Mary) until the end of the road is reached at Horseshoe Lake (very large parking area).

From the parking area, take the Mammoth Pass Trail up to McLeod Lake. When you arrive at McLeod Lake, hike around the left side (clockwise) until you reach a small stream inlet on the far side of the lake.

The inlet is in an open'ish meadow and you can see a large talus slide that makes it almost all the way down to the lake (there is a small snow field at the top of the talus in my overview photo). On the right side of this talus is a strip of trees that heads up towards the crest. Follow a use trail up through the trees until you reach the final talus/snow field below the crest proper. From this point, hike to the various routes to either the left or right.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
● New Model (No. 15)
Trad, Sport, Alpine 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 29
● Finger Locking Good
Trad, Sport, Alpine 2 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 1
● Above Suspicion
Trad, Alpine
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
● Golden Oldies
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 2
● The Apprentice
Trad, Alpine
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 2
● The Contender
Trad, Alpine
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 2
● Right to Lean P1
Trad, Alpine
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 9
● Flower Power
Trad, Alpine
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
● Lucy, I'm Home
Trad, Alpine
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 10
● My Mutt Is Smarter Than Your Hon…
Trad, Alpine
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 9
● Sierra Slam
Trad, Alpine
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 11
● Plum Line
Sport, Alpine
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
● Uncontrolled Burn
Trad, Alpine
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 2
● Master Beta
Trad, Alpine
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 11
● Black Track
Sport, Alpine 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
● Hex Route
Trad, Alpine
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 2
● Arete
TR, Alpine
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
● Bush Route
Trad, Alpine
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 1
● Backseat Climber
Trad, Alpine
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
● A Good Ribbing
Sport, Alpine 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● New Model (No. 15)
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport, Alpine 3 pitches
● Finger Locking Good
 29
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport, Alpine 2 pitches
● Above Suspicion
 1
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad, Alpine
● Golden Oldies
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
● The Apprentice
 2
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine
● The Contender
 2
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine
● Right to Lean P1
 2
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Alpine
● Flower Power
 9
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine
● Lucy, I'm Home
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine
● My Mutt Is Smarter Than You…
 10
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine
● Sierra Slam
 9
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Alpine
● Plum Line
 11
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, Alpine
● Uncontrolled Burn
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Alpine
● Master Beta
 2
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine
● Black Track
 11
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, Alpine 3 pitches
● Hex Route
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine
● Arete
 2
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b TR, Alpine
● Bush Route
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine
● Backseat Climber
 1
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine
● A Good Ribbing
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, Alpine 3 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

New route route on the crest 10/29/17
[Hide Photo] New route route on the crest 10/29/17
Nearing the top of the Cracked Tower, 5.7 R.
[Hide Photo] Nearing the top of the Cracked Tower, 5.7 R.
up the corners. New route on the crest. 9/7/15
[Hide Photo] up the corners. New route on the crest. 9/7/15
Mammoth Crest from the northeastern shore of McLeod Lake.
[Hide Photo] Mammoth Crest from the northeastern shore of McLeod Lake.
Mammoth Crest from McLeod Lake, Mammoth Lakes Basin
[Hide Photo] Mammoth Crest from McLeod Lake, Mammoth Lakes Basin
Mammoth Crest from McLeod Lake, Mammoth Lakes Basin
[Hide Photo] Mammoth Crest from McLeod Lake, Mammoth Lakes Basin

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Scott Sinner
Reno, NV
[Hide Comment] For more routes that aren't in the book or listed here, check out the binder of newer routes in Mammoth Mountaineering. There are some good routes (5.10-11 range) in the sector 2 area that deserve some more traffic. Aug 8, 2013
Brooks Ryan
Shenandoah Junction, WV
[Hide Comment] Want to call out that there are some very death-block-ey death blocks at the beginning of the second pitch of the 11a at requiem wall (forget what it's called, first pitch is 10a and shares a start with flower power). There's a completely detached pillar right above the bush on the belay and also one of the rails on the arete is going to blow. Both sections can be avoided, but the someone is going to grab that rail (like I did) and it's going to send them for a ride.
Overall excellent climb though. Get the Mammoth book and check it out. Aug 15, 2020