Lower Guadalupe Rock Rock Climbing

Guadalupe Rock is possibly the most underrated crag in the Bay Area.

For example, the book Rock Climbing the San Francisco Bay Area warns climbers to "steer clear of the unpleasant mud and flies at Guadalupe Rock and find a better place to climb." (pg 211)

I don't know what the author was pissed off about the day she visited the place, because the crag is downright pleasant. Granted, conditions around the rock change, as this crag sits next to/in the stream that feeds into Guadalupe Reservoir (or, when the reservoir is especially high, in the reservoir itself). But if you don't mind rock-hopping across the stream to start your route, this is a beautiful, secluded place that has several very fun routes and practically no approach. I have climbed here a good 15 times over the last 10 years, and I have never seen another person climbing here.

The rock is really a huge boulder (45-50ft) of moderate-to-good quality stone (Greywacke - a type of sandstone). The rock holds about half a dozen established routes (that is, I have found some documentation for them) but could easily see some more development.

All routes can be easily toproped by walking around the back of the rock and scrambling up to the top (not sketchy at all). There are several solid bolts at the top, but they are somewhat spread out. I like to bring a 20ft piece of webbing for the anchors.

All routes have been equipped for leading with modern expansion bolts or glue-ins.  A stick clip is mandatory when the creek is flowing if you don't want to get wet.

It should be noted that the ratings provided here come from the only place I could find them-- rockclimbing.com. They seem to be fairly accurate though.

To be fair, this place is no Castle Rock State Park. But the routes are fun, the area is beautiful, and there is some good potential for more routes here.