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Elevation: 1,750 ft 533 m
GPS: 41.2755, 0.7678
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 18, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Jason Halladay, David Riley

Description Suggest change

"Finestra" is probably Margalef's best crag. With over 60 routes, from 5.11a to 5.14d (not to mention several open projects with proposed grades in the 5.15b-range) this crag has something for just about everyone. While famous for its unparalleled concentration of cutting edge routes, this cliff's high number of "moderates" are what keep the crowds coming back. This cliff has more than 10 high-quality 5.11's (including Magrana, one of the best routes at Margalef), around twenty 5.12s, and ten 5.13s.

The Finestra cliff is taller & more consistently angled than most other Margalef cliffs. The routes tend to be long & consistently steep, generally lacking the bulbous roofs & bulges found at other cliffs, making the climbing more endurance-oriented. Some of Margalef's best stone can be found here, highly pocketed, and with several of the more classic lines such as Montgronyeta featuring engaging tufa curtains.

The cliff is a large, semi-circular amphitheatre with a north-facing center. Some of the routes on either end get sun at various times, but generally this crag is shaded all day. There are a number of impresseive overhangs that stay dry in the rain, though the grades on these cliffs start at 5.13a and go up in a hurry.

Other must do routes include
5.11b, for the bolted crack enthusiast, Entretres, perhaps Margalef's best 5.12a, Antologica, 5.12d, with more tufa curtains, Aeroplastica, 5.13a, an excellent pocket line,
5,13b, an ultra steep power problem, El Fustigador, 5.13c, a long, steep enduro line,
a steep enduro line & Margalef's most popular 5.14b, and the long 45 degree overhang of
Margalef's first 5.14c.

Getting There Suggest change

From Margalef, follow the bridge East across the river towards the "Fonda Tres Pines" Hotel. Heads up for the tree that is literally in the middle of the road! Veer left after the tree, heading up a steep paved road signed for "Ermita Sant Salvador". Continue winding up this road, passing several crags on either side of the canyon. After ~1.8 KM, park at a fork in the road in any of the small pullouts. It looks like there might be a new parking lot going in here.

Follow a steep trail on the right (South) side of the road. Switchback up for ~3 minutes to arrive below a big orange, chossy wall with a gray slab above. Head right for Tenebres, and a few neglected Finestra routes. Otherwise head left, back into the woods for a short bit, to emerge below another orange, chossy-looking wall with a big gray slab above. A cliffbase trail continues left to the central & left sectors of Finestra.

35 Total Climbs

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Location: Raco de la Finestra Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Raco de la Finestra

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 53
Magrana
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
Action Man
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 5
Nous Horitzons
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 10
Okemaka
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 18
Entretres
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 13
Sancho Pancho
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 5
Pitus i Flautes
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 5
Laverint d'ombres
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 9
Crucigrama
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 25
Montgronyeta
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 6
Antologica
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 8
Aeroplastica
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Magrana
 53
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Action Man
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Nous Horitzons
 5
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Okemaka
 10
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Entretres
 18
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Sancho Pancho
 13
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Pitus i Flautes
 5
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Laverint d'ombres
 5
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Crucigrama
 9
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Montgronyeta
 25
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Antologica
 6
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Aeroplastica
 8
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Raco de la Finestra »

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