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Raco de les Espadelles Rock Climbing
Routes in Raco de les Espadelles
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No M'agradaria Ser Martell S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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La hormiga atomica S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ni pa ti S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Perepunyetes S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lajote vil S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Unknown Route #6 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Guirlache S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Setareh S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Abanibi S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Roig Heffner S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Sudoku S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Draculin S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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El Gordinflón S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Per Molts Anys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Maligna S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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La Gomorra S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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No m´Agradaria Ser Martell S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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La Xikipandi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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El Sistema S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Ximpleta S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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La Drecera S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Beta de Boira S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Para Cuenca por Amor S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Repòs Actiu S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Punto de Gravedad Cero S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Tastavins S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Memoria Histerica S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Corporaio Antiestetica S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Malasombra S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Transilvania S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Amb Pal no Dona Pal S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Franja de Ponent S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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De Benicarió, Mierdas! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Que Pasa Neng? S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Turmellosi S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Maria, la bruixeta bona S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Elevation: | 1,834 ft | 559 m |
| GPS: |
41.3019, 0.7739 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 18,256 total · 97/month | |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Dec 18, 2009 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, David Riley |
Description
The eye of every first-time visitor to Margalef is instantly drawn to the striking orange cliffband that towers above the crags of the valley below. This is Raco de les Espadelles, and its one of the best cliffs in the region. The rock is excellent, covered in beautiful colored streaks, and featuring some of the best tufa climbing at Margalef. There are over 50 routes here, ranging from 5.10 to 5.14c, with several open projects and potential for many more.
Must do routes here include Perepunyetes, 5.10+, a juggy near-vertical wall, Draculin, 5.12a, a sustained pocket route, Malasombra, 5.13a, a gently overhanging pocket line, and Transilvania, 5.13b, considered the best 8a at Margalef.
The cliff faces South-Southwest, and therefore receives sun most of the day. There are five or six routes at the far left end that begin from a grove of tall tress & receive a good bit of shade. The cliff undulates quite a bit, and has some steep overhangs, so you may be able to find pockets of shade at certain times.
Must do routes here include Perepunyetes, 5.10+, a juggy near-vertical wall, Draculin, 5.12a, a sustained pocket route, Malasombra, 5.13a, a gently overhanging pocket line, and Transilvania, 5.13b, considered the best 8a at Margalef.
The cliff faces South-Southwest, and therefore receives sun most of the day. There are five or six routes at the far left end that begin from a grove of tall tress & receive a good bit of shade. The cliff undulates quite a bit, and has some steep overhangs, so you may be able to find pockets of shade at certain times.
Getting There
This crag is easy to see but harder to reach. Head Northeast out of Margalef on the T713 for about 1.5 Km. Turn right onto a paved road signed for "Embassement", passing under large power lines. Follow the paved road around the first hairpin, to a set of colorful dumpsters ~50 yds beyond. Turn left onto a good dirt road at the dumpsters. This road is very steep in spots, but generally good, & no problem for passenger cars in normal conditions. Wind up the road for what seems like too long, until the road gains a big plateau at a left hairpin turn. Park at the pullout at this hairpin. There is an abandoned stone shack ~50 yds South of the parking lot.
Follow a good trail South, past the shack, to a low-angle slab. Downclimb the slab (fixed rope & metal rungs), then turn left (East) & follow the trail a short bit to another short downclimb. Continue a few yards thru trees to the cliff.
Follow a good trail South, past the shack, to a low-angle slab. Downclimb the slab (fixed rope & metal rungs), then turn left (East) & follow the trail a short bit to another short downclimb. Continue a few yards thru trees to the cliff.
Classic Climbing Routes at Raco de les Espadelles
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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