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Giant City State Park

Illinois
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Description

Southern Illinois boasts several climbing areas, but none have more history then Giant City State Park. For Illinois, this is the birthplace for hard, progressive climbing. Giant City State Park is owned and managed by the Illinois Department of Natural Resources (IDNR).

Within the park, there are two main areas, Shelter 1 Bluff and the Devil's Standtable Area. The Makanda Bluff, "aka Shelter 1" is primarily a sport and traditional climbing area with the routes ranging 5.6 - 5.12. This area is great for short training sessions in preparation for other big areas. One route that deserve mentioning is City Limits. At the time it was established, it was one of the hardest routes in the country, and the world. Another climb worth mentioning is the Return to Forever boulder traverse that runs along the base of the bluff line. Beginning from Jills and running to the Camel's Hump, this challenging boulder problem will have you searching for rests while fighting to not get pumped. For those looking for more of a challenge, there is a low variation, and a super long variation that begins at the Chimney in the woods and stretches to the Camel's Hump.

Although an upstanding history of partnership existed prior to 2017 between Giant City State Park and the Illinois Climbers Association (ICA), the premier project began around this time when the ICA added fixed anchors (bolts) to the climbing areas. Now climbers can enjoy stainless steel hardware as they sport climb in these historic areas.  This project benefited both climbers and the natural resources by eliminating the need for climbers to rappel off trees on the sensitive bluff top. Please tell the park that you love the climbing at Giant City!

The Devils Standtable area contains a bouldering area and rope climbs. Fun intermediate boulder problems worth mentioning are The Standard, Buzz Arete, and the Center Line. Great advanced boulder problems that visitors are recommended to attempt are Devil on a Leash, Jah Arete, and Higher Education. All in all the area is great for quick bouldering sessions. Sport climbing in the amphitheater is steep, bouldery, and hard!

For the sake of organizing areas on Mountain Project, another bouldering area nearby that is not exactly within the confines of Giant City, but is close enough, is The Orchards. Found on USFS Shawnee National Forest land, this small, yet secluded area offers several challenging problems and contains one very hard project that supposedly is yet to be sent. The recommended problem here is Duraflame, and is a fun/challenging test of anyones roof climbing abilities.

As a last note, a huge thanks should be given to Giant City's early pioneers for their vision and dedication to Illinois first climbing destination. Thank you: Craig Barnes, Jim Foster, Cris Franks, Joe Dittamore, Joe Heally, Adam Grosowsky, Gene Charleton, Greg Bailey, Alan Carrier, and many others for all of your work.

Getting There

From Carbondale take Highway 13 East. Turn right (near the intersection of McDonalds and Walmart) and head South on Giant City Rd. Continue for about 15 minutes and the road leads directly to the park. From the entrance follow the signs to the appropriate destination.



To have your phone/gps directly guide you, type the GPS Coordinates, exactly as written,  into your device for it to guide you to the specific area.

GPS Coordinates for Shelter 1
37.625665, -89.200118

GPS Coordinates for the Devils Standtable area
37.599566, -89.193393

Resources


Founded in 2002. The Illinois Climbers Association is a charitable organization representing the climbers of Illinois. We are dedicated to preserving climbing and bouldering access in Illinois through education, conservation, and cooperation.

Mission

The Illinois Climbers Association is a 501(c)3 charitable organization created to:

  1. Promote and support conservation and preservation of both rock climbing and bouldering areas, and their respective natural resources in Illinois
  2. Encourage optimal recreational use of Illinois outdoor climbing resources through land stewardship education and by facilitating cooperation between climbers, private land owners, and public land managers
  3. Encourage and promote the development of policies and practices that will preserve climbing and bouldering areas in Illinois

HELP THE ICA RETRO-BOLT GIANT CITY! 
**PLEASE DONATE**
Click HERE to donate towards the Illinois Climber Association's retro-bolting cause. The ICA has been instrumental in conserving access to the climbing at GIANT CITY. If you have any questions, comments or concerns feel free to contact them.

Guidebook



Vertical Heartland is the best guide to roped climbing in G.C.S.P. Covering both Shelter 1 and the Devils Standtable areas, this guide is a must for navigating the crag.



Sandstone Warrior briefly touches on the bouldering in the park. The climbs displayed in the book are absolute G.C. classics.

Special Thanks

A huge thanks goes out to the Friends of Giant City. Their organization had graciously donated over $2,000 towards the purchasing of bolts and hardware. Help support the friends and purchase a Giant City t-shirt at the visitors center!

Donate

The Illinois Climbers Association equipped the sport climbing and traditional lead anchors at Giant City. Please donate to the ICA to support maintenance of this project including quick link and mussy hook installation. https://www.ilclimbers.org/giveback

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Shelter 1
[Hide Photo] Shelter 1
Map of Giant City State Park
[Hide Photo] Map of Giant City State Park
The Devils Standtable
[Hide Photo] The Devils Standtable

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

roger fritz
Rockford, IL
[Hide Comment] We took a side trip from jackson falls to Giant city shelter one climbing area. There are some fine lines there. Why has no-one posted these? Are you locals keeping them secret? Come-on share them with us!!! Oct 15, 2012
SAR Chasm
Saguache, CO
[Hide Comment] I have not climbed there since 1978 but it was my first exposure to rock crags. Jun 27, 2020