Butterfly Wall Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 7,200 ft | 2,195 m |
GPS: |
32.4227, -110.7168 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 12,185 total · 64/month | |
Shared By: | Chris Prewitt on Oct 21, 2009 · Updates | |
Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
This wall saw its first technical climbing back in 1974 by Rich Thompson and Dave Baker. A lack of easily protectable traditional routes and a lengthy bushwack seemed to be enough to deter further development. Modern equipment and mentalities have shown this area to hold a plethora of quality climbing. NOTE: Some routes here require a 70M rope, and in some cases special tactics, to safely lower off.
Clearly visible from the Catalina Highway (Mi. 24) near the Loma Linda pullout as well as from the Butterfly Trail below, the wall still maintains a secluded atmosphere. Given the minimal human presence here the plants and animals are still in relatively pristine condition. Grass and trees at the base of the crag are a welcomed change to the dirt and erosion found at many other areas. Deer and turkey are a regular sight on the hike. In an effort to maintain this environment for future generations please take extra care to minimize your impact. Most of all enjoy your surroundings.
Approach Beta
2022 update: It appears the original climber trail described below has been obliterated from the 2020 fire, erosion, and years of overgrowth. Highly advisable to take the official Butterfly Trail down until just above the top of the wall and then cut over on a faint climbers trail and follow cairns down along the the south side of the formation until you reach the base (see gps track on map page). About 40 minutes down, 50-60 minutes to get back up.
There are 3 options for where to park: 1. Summit of Mt. Bigelow next to the radio towers, 2. On the highway just across from the Palisade Ranger Station (mandatory if the dirt roads are closed for snow), 3. At the end of the Incinerator Ridge Road.
Each of these three options has a trail that leads to the top of the Butterfly Trail (32.4147, -110.7114).
Original directions:
Follow driving directions to the summit/trailhead parking on Mount Bigelow. Walk away from the radio towers (north) and down the main Butterfly trail for a few yards until a smaller trail branches off to the left. Follow this onto the ridge then down a steepening hill. You should be able to see the top of the formation slightly down-canyon. At a large, grassy saddle walk left (NW) down the slope and pick up a climbers trail that heads across the hill (N). The trial makes a few switchbacks before making a long traverse of the hillside. Once the trail begins to near the ridge, and close to a point directly above the wall it switchbacks down to the saddle on the back of the formation. From here head left (S) around the shoulder of the formation before a final short scramble down to the base of the wall. The last few switchbacks wrap back to the wall below the wide-diagonal crack on the far right of the west face. Average time to wall: 30 minutes, to car: 45 minutes.
Classic Climbing Routes at Butterfly Wall
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