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Pince Sans Rire Rock Climbing
Routes in Pince Sans Rire
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Afina con Cristina S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Akelarre S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Ciao Bambino S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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El Enano de Siberia S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Esclava Laboral S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Far Faders West, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gracias Fina S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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La Alimaña de Ocaña S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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La Piton S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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La Piton Low Anchor S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Los Hermanos Peruanos S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Malaguita S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Maria Ponte el Arnes S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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No Hay Pico con Lagunas S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pikku Kana S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pince Sans Rire S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Pire in the Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Elevation: | 2,529 ft | 771 m |
| GPS: |
42.2876, -0.082 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 10,676 total · 58/month | |
| Shared By: | LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Sep 25, 2009 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, David Riley |
Description
Some of the finest routes in Rodellar are in this smaller little cave. The best routes range from 5.12- to 5.13 with Pince Sans Rire 5.12c being one of the best routes in the canyon. There are also several easier routes on the left side of the cave.
The cave wraps around a full 180 degrees so there is a north facing wall, which is mostly easier and shorter stuff 5.11 to 5.12-. The west facing portion is home to some very hard long routes which go out the roof, some of which have mid anchors which still puts them in the 5.12+ to 5.13- range. As the cave curves around to face more south is where it really stands out. The wall is 100-120 feet tall and lined with tuffas sections. Starting with Akelarre/Gracias Fina and extending around to Far Faders West. There are 7 or so routes that are all long and fun. This southern facing portion of the cliff goes progressively into the shade created by the steeper cave portion of the wall and is well shaded for a good portion of the day.
There is not a lot of area to hang out so it can seem crowded even though there are plenty of routes.
The cave wraps around a full 180 degrees so there is a north facing wall, which is mostly easier and shorter stuff 5.11 to 5.12-. The west facing portion is home to some very hard long routes which go out the roof, some of which have mid anchors which still puts them in the 5.12+ to 5.13- range. As the cave curves around to face more south is where it really stands out. The wall is 100-120 feet tall and lined with tuffas sections. Starting with Akelarre/Gracias Fina and extending around to Far Faders West. There are 7 or so routes that are all long and fun. This southern facing portion of the cliff goes progressively into the shade created by the steeper cave portion of the wall and is well shaded for a good portion of the day.
There is not a lot of area to hang out so it can seem crowded even though there are plenty of routes.
Getting There
From the trail junction head down into the canyon then up river. Pass the Gran Boveda. When the end of a small rock slide covers the main trail heading up the canyon, look for the cave up on your left or the west side. Hump it up the hill to the cave, you will approach the south facing right side first and can work around to the other side once the cave is reached.
Classic Climbing Routes at Pince Sans Rire
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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