All Locations > Maine > -Clifton Crags

Fletcher Bluff Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Fletcher Bluff

a. Left Side 0

b. Kansas Wall 0

c. Central Walls 1

d. Broken area AKA Mountaineer's Face 0

e. Ollie's Wall 0

f. Moon-dog wall 0

g. Sundog Wall 10

h. Right Side 0

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Elevation:	678 ft	207 m
GPS:	44.85191, -68.45149 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	11,307 total · 59/month
Shared By:	Ben V on Sep 8, 2009 · Updates
Admins:	BDalhaus, Ladd Raine, Jonathan S, Robert Hall, Chris Duca Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Fletcher Bluff is a large and complex cliff band in a quiet and remote setting.

The cliff has many styles of climbing, from slabs, to roofs, to cracks of all sizes and most notably, excellent face climbing. The cliff is south facing and generally very warm, a good winter destination if you can get out there (road is not maintained for winter travel). Some areas seep, especially the Sundog area, where most routes will be wet in the spring, and seeps will return after heavy rain.

The rock at Fletchers is excellent, and hopefully more climbers will get out here in the future. This is one of those places that doesn’t see the traffic it deserves.

Getting There

There are several ways ways to get to the trailhead from route nine. I have highlighted the two easiest ways I know of, though other options likely exist. The network of roads back in there is extensive and often differ from the routes shown on google maps.

The first option is quicker though is often gated in the spring. The second option is longer but is not gated. Be careful when driving there early in the season as the roads back there are steep, cell signal is poor, and the roads may not be regularly maintained. See also Jon Tierney's info on the approach in the comments below.

Trailhead: 44.848928, -68.453206

Option 1 - Clifton Entrance: From Route 9, near the Parks Pond Bluff trailhead, turn down Stage Coach road until it turns into Fire road 30. Turn left onto Bradbury Brook Road, and follow this, keeping right, until you turn onto Trout Pond Road. Follow Trout Pond Road until you reach the trailhead.

Option 2 - Amherst Entrance: From Route 9, turn onto a road with an Amherst Public Lands sign, called 09-13-0. This was the original way in, which was blocked, but now is RE-OPENED and is not gated. Junction here: 44.826562, -68.415772

Follow this road north, passing a mangled gate, crossing a small bridge, until you see a large, open intersection on the left. Take that left, and continue onto Trout pond road to the trailhead.

Once parked, there should be a small sand hill with evidence of people using it as a firing range. The trailhead is not marked. On the opposite (North) side of the road, will be a small clear-cut area with a small cairn not obvious from the road. Once at the cairn, turn left and follow orange blazes to the cliff. Walk approximately 10-15 minutes, crossing a stream via a small boulder-hop. The trail will pass a large boulder, and you will intersect the cliffside trail at the right end of the Central Walls area.