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The Leaning Wall Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in The Leaning Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Columbus Day in America T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Orange Corner, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Nina T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	A Brief Squall T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Golden Plate T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Classic Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Slabby Steps T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Leaning Seam, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Leaning Face (AKA Backscratcher), The T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Leaning Corner, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Leaning Flake, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Leaning Crack, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

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Elevation:	8,000 ft	2,438 m
GPS:	38.8797, -106.14731 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Drew Spaulding on Sep 4, 2009
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Description

"The Leaning Wall" has a good mix of moderate and difficult routes. The left side of the wall has 5 moderate routes 5.7-5.9. The right side has 5 routes from 5.10c-5.12a. Most routes require some gear placements as well as bolts for protection. Rock quality is typical gritty BV granite, but the routes are cleaning up over time.... Great afternoon sun makes year round climbing possible. (This crag is labeled "Milt's Wall" in the Arkansas Valley climbing guidebook, but "Milt's Wall" actually sits just south and above the 1st set of tunnels.) Routes are described from left to right....

(1) The Orange Corner - 5.7, gear to chains.
(2) A Brief Squall - 5.7+, gear and bolts to chains.
(3) Golden Plate - 5.9 ,(5.10a 1 bolt start optional) gear and bolts to chains - left of the "Slab Tree".
(4) Classic Corner - 5.7, climb gear to the right of the "Slab Tree" up the steep corner.
(5) Slabby Steps - 5.8, just left of the "Leaning Seam"... scramble up to a bolted bulge and up to the thin lieback crack. Finish on the bolted slab above.
(6) The Leaning Seam - 5.10d, thin gear to 1 bolt and then up to chains.
(7) The Leaning Face (AKA-Backscratcher) - 5.12a, 6 bolts and gear to chains.
(8) The Leaning Corner - 5.11b, gear and 1 bolt crux to chains.
(9) The Leaning Flake - 5.10c, gear and 3 bolts to chains.
(10) The Leaning Crack - 5.10d/11a, gear to chains.

Getting There

The Leaning Wall is found by driving north on the "River Road" (Co. Rd. 371) from the town of BV. After passing through the first set of tunnels, drive 1/4 mile, just past the "Chief's Head" and park on the right before entering the 3rd tunnel. A large pine tree grows from the foot of the steep, leaning wall. 5 minutes up the moderate slope to the base.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Leaning Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 53 ● The Orange Corner Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 19 ● Classic Corner Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 34 ● A Brief Squall Trad, Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 14 ● Slabby Steps Trad, Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 26 ● Golden Plate Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 4 ● Nina Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 10 ● The Leaning Flake Trad, Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 10 ● The Leaning Seam Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 7 ● The Leaning Crack Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 13 ● The Leaning Face (AKA Backscratc… Trad, Sport