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South Side

N Carolina > 1. Southern Mou… > Looking Glass Rock
Warning Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags DetailsDrop down

Description

Unlike the more forbidding Looking Glass areas, the South Side has something for everybody. Beginners can hop on easier climbs like Lichen or Not or Good Intentions; moderate leaders can hone their skills on great lines like Gemini Crack; and seasoned climbers can push themselves on harder routes like Dinkus Dog. Most of the routes at the South End are multi-pitch, but route-finding is straightforward and descent options include plentiful bolted rap stations.

Getting There

From the road fork, continue up the gravel road a short distance to the Slickrock Falls trailhead, located where the road takes a hard left. Hike up the trail, following switchbacks, for about three-quarters of a mile, ending at the base of the wall in the Bloody Crack area.

Routes from Left to Right

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
Southender
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 15
The Enigma
Trad 4 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 2
Long Dog
Trad 5 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 70
Dinkus Dog
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 2
Parachute Woman
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 10
Chaos Out of Control
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 47
Fat Dog
Trad 2 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 8
Mettle Detector
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 90
Unfinished Concerto
Trad 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 1
Beethoven's Fifth
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 15
Bat's Ass
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 18
Windwalker
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 194
Rat's Ass
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 260
Second Coming
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 4
Catch Me Now I'm Falling
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 109
First Return
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 201
Gemini Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 32
The Legacy
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 48
Zodiac
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 16
Sentry Box Ledge Direct
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 78
Good Intentions
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 82
Left Up
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 38
Right Up
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
 1
Bloody Alternative
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 130
Bloody Crack
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 101
Short Man's Sorrow
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 52
Lichen or Not
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
Bamboozled
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 25
B-52
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
The Slug
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Southender
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Enigma
 15
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Long Dog
 2
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 5 pitches
Dinkus Dog
 70
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Parachute Woman
 2
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Chaos Out of Control
 10
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Fat Dog
 47
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Mettle Detector
 8
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
Unfinished Concerto
 90
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Beethoven's Fifth
 1
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Bat's Ass
 15
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Windwalker
 18
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Rat's Ass
 194
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Second Coming
 260
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Catch Me Now I'm Falling
 4
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad 2 pitches
First Return
 109
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Gemini Crack
 201
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
The Legacy
 32
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Zodiac
 48
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Sentry Box Ledge Direct
 16
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad, TR
Good Intentions
 78
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Left Up
 82
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Right Up
 38
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Bloody Alternative
 1
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad
Bloody Crack
 130
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Short Man's Sorrow
 101
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Lichen or Not
 52
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
Bamboozled
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
B-52
 25
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
The Slug
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Approaching the South Face Nice Fall Colors.
[Hide Photo] Approaching the South Face Nice Fall Colors.
Jeep Gaskin working on Danger Dog 4-88.This was post large flake crashing down while Monty was standing on it!
[Hide Photo] Jeep Gaskin working on Danger Dog 4-88.This was post large flake crashing down while Monty was standing on it!
Eddie Begoon on FA. of Beethovan's 5th 1988.
[Hide Photo] Eddie Begoon on FA. of Beethovan's 5th 1988.
Final anchors for Second Coming, First Return, Gemini Crack, and others in the Sentry Ledge Area.
[Hide Photo] Final anchors for Second Coming, First Return, Gemini Crack, and others in the Sentry Ledge Area.
The anchors on Sentry Box Ledge.  Please do not top rope through the rings.
[Hide Photo] The anchors on Sentry Box Ledge. Please do not top rope through the rings.
Southside just as trail ends.  Not sure exact location
[Hide Photo] Southside just as trail ends. Not sure exact location
Rap from Gemini to Sentury Box Ledge
[Hide Photo] Rap from Gemini to Sentury Box Ledge
Jeep High on Danger Dog during FA. with Monty Reagan.
[Hide Photo] Jeep High on Danger Dog during FA. with Monty Reagan.
Jeep on Danger Dog with Monty looking on during FA.1988
[Hide Photo] Jeep on Danger Dog with Monty looking on during FA.1988
Eddie on FA of Beethovan's 5th.5.11 just right of Unfinished Concerto.
[Hide Photo] Eddie on FA of Beethovan's 5th.5.11 just right of Unfinished Concerto.