All Locations > Washington > Northwest Region > San Juan, Fidal… > Mt Erie

Main Wall Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Main Wall

(a) Ramp Wall 1

(b) Main Wall West 18

(d) The Headwall 6

(e) Main Wall East 13

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Elevation:	758 ft	231 m
GPS:	48.45196, -122.62798 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	111,385 total · 581/month
Shared By:	Jared VG on Aug 14, 2009 · Updates
Admins:	Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

The main wall at Mt. Erie encompasses several walls, and contains many routes with many different styles of climbing. There are steep sport routes and slabs as well as bolted and traditional multi-pitch climbs. The rock on the main wall and surrounding areas is generally solid diorite, fairly clean, and some of the quickest to dry after a rain. The cliff is South to Southwest facing, and as such, receives sun from mid morning until sunset. Climbs here range from 5.7 to 5.12. A good selection of 5.11 climbs exist on the snag buttress. The area is generally not crowded. Helmets are advisable as there are many hiking trails and ledges covered in loose rock above the cliffs.

Getting There

Parking is in a pullout on the east side of Hart Lake Road 1/8 mile north of the Lake Erie Grocery. Take the 248 trail which leads up into the woods on the right side of the gate. This trail is followed for 5-10 minutes until it comes to a T junction with the 247 trail. Take a right on this trail and walk for another 2-5 minutes, watching for a less traveled unmarked trail on the left. Head left along the less traveled trail, uphill again and into the woods towards the base of the cliff. After moving up a couple short rock steps the trail enters a clearing, which gives a good view of the routes on the Headwall and Snag Buttress. Take the trail the rest of the way up to the cliffs keeping to the right at one last fork (which goes left to Ramp Wall). The trail meets the cliff at a prominent right facing corner, which is the first pitch of Zig Zag. Total approach time is about 15 20 minutes.

54 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 182 ● Zig Zag Trad 2 pitches (b) Main Wall West
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 72 ● Undercover Trad (b) Main Wall West
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 73 ● Sunshine on a Dark Day Trad (c) Snag Buttress
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 98 ● Springboard Trad (b) Main Wall West
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 46 ● Touching the Sky Sport 2 pitches (d) The Headwall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 59 ● Gotta Keep Dancin Trad 4 pitches (e) Main Wall East
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 33 ● Freedom Fighter Sport 2 pitches (d) The Headwall
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 57 ● Lord of the Dance Trad 3 pitches (e) Main Wall East
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 8 ● Slayer in Suburbia Trad (c) Snag Buttress
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 45 ● Raindown Sport (c) Snag Buttress
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 16 ● Chimney Sweep Sport (d) The Headwall
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 13 ● Razorblade Suitcase Trad (c) Snag Buttress
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 62 ● Frogs in Space Trad (c) Snag Buttress
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 9 ● Dancin' with the Divine (aka the… Trad 2 pitches (e) Main Wall East
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 9 ● When the Cat's Away, the Mice Wi… Sport (d) The Headwall