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Indian Creek Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Indian Creek

L › R R › L A › Z

	7 Up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Acuwide T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	All in a Day's Work T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Another One Bites the Dust T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Better Red Than Dead T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Blind Man's Bluff V2 5+
	Blissoming into Manhood T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Blood on the Nuts T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Break the Edge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Bring Out the Gent T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Cave Cricket T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Country Lovin T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Crack Attack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Curiosity T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Dangling Angle T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Deerfly T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Don't Break the Edge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Don't Come Easy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Drunked Up T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Fibrulator T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Fibrulator Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Five Tree T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Fripper's Last Day T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	G2 the Friction T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Gizmo T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Great Beyond, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Gumby in a Tree T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Indian Castle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	It's Got it All T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Jim's Dihedral T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Just the Tip T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Lost Dihedral T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Made me Sweat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Not Ice T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Number of the Beast T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Orange Barrel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Out on a Limb T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Over Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Pocket Problem V0+ 4+
	Scott Problem, The V1 5
	Shit My Pants and Dance T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Six Four Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Slimy Creatures T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Trunkline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Elevation:	1,191 ft	363 m
GPS:	37.8939, -83.63681 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Chad Wagner on Apr 13, 2009 · Updates
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Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. Details

fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…

Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.

Description

Like its namesake in Utah, Indian Creek contains an abundance of quality crack lines. But the highlight of this crag are the massive offwidth roofs up to 20 feet-literally feet. But oddly enough the name means more to this crag than any other in the Red, and its the line Crack Attack, a Classic that looks like it should be in Utah. The wall has a number of buttresses which create different aspects and rock characteristics that directly affect route quality.

Getting There

Drive East through the Nada Tunnel on KY 77 for 2.3 miles cross a steel bridge and turn left onto Forest Rd 23 at the sign for Indian Creek. Continue for 2.5 miles and take a right at the fork for route 9. Continue for another 1.2 miles and take another right for route 9b. Continue for 2.8 miles and you'll find a parking lot with a gated off river crossing.

Park here, hop along rocks to cross the river, and walk north along the road for .6 miles. At .5 miles the creek has washed out the road, navigate this to stay on the road on the other side of the washout and continue another .1 miles. Look out for a two cylindrical, 2ft high pylons on the right that mark the start of the trail. If you've gotten to a river junction or crossing, you just missed it. Follow this uphill to the west for another 15-20 minutes until you reach the bottom of the crag. As of Oct 16, there is a large fallen tree that blocks and obscures the trail right as it makes a few turns around 10 minutes into the hike; at this point head uphill around 20ft to find and rejoin the trail again.

Parking coordinates: 37.886790, -83.648461

Crag Coordinates: 37.8939, -83.63681

Note that in the past it was possible to drive across the creek and up the road to another parking area, so older guidebooks may have approach beta written from that perspective.

44 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Indian Creek

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 38 ● Slimy Creatures Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 5 ● Curiosity Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 5 ● Blood on the Nuts Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 192 ● Crack Attack Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 92 ● Jim's Dihedral Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 4 ● Cave Cricket Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 24 ● Fibrulator Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 8 ● Fibrulator Direct Trad