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Elevation: 546 ft 166 m
GPS: 42.5692, -72.4608
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Shared By: kurthicks on Apr 6, 2009 · Updates
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Description Suggest change

Home to some classic climbs on excellent gneiss, Mormon Hollow is a fine complement to other nearby popular crags (Farley and Rose Ledges) of western Massachusetts. Mormon caters to climbers of all levels and styles with a nice smattering of moderate routes, good cracks, some hard boulder problems, and a handful of steep, hard sport climbs. The beginner will enjoy the easy access to the top of the cliff and the ability to set up top ropes on some of the bolted anchors. There are nearly 20 sport climbs with grades from 5.7 to 5.13, though most are 5.10 and up. The trad is mostly 5.10 and under and is generally well protected. 

The cliffs face southwest and get sun from late morning until sunset, though trees obscure the sun during the summer months. Most of the climbing is on DCR land but the far right of the cliff, to the right of Priapism, crosses onto private land. Each spring the landowner closes a few climbs if the ravens are nesting above. Please respect this closure.

This crag has been divided into 3 sections to hopefully make it easier to navigate. The first area is the Dark Star Boulder, which is the obvious large boulder you pass on the way to the crag. Behind this boulder is the stone staircase that is used to access the top of the cliff. This staircase divides the cliff into the Left Side and the Right Side.

Getting There Suggest change

From I-91, turn east onto Route 2 towards Boston & Turners Falls. Drive 7.1 miles to a left turn onto Gateway Drive at a large, family entertainment center. Go about 100m, and turn right/south at the first stop sign onto Route 63. Stay on Route 63 as it crosses the river then goes through downtown Miller's Falls. The road continues straight, over a green metal bridge. Veer left onto Wendell Road. Go left after 0.8 miles onto Mormon Hollow Road. Drive 0.7 miles, and turn right onto Davis Road. Continue a quarter mile to a "T" intersection. Park on the right shoulder here.

From the parking area, turn right at the "T" intersection. Walk about 100 meters to an old road on the left marked with a "No Parking" sign. Hike uphill on this overgrown road for about 200 meters, until it makes a sharp right turn at a flat spot. A spur trail on the left marked with a cairn leads another 100 meters or so to the crag, 10 minutes.

Per losbill: when parking at the T-intersection, be sure not to block the entrance to the two fields on either side of Davis Road.

Reporting Climbing Anchor or Trail Maintenance Issues to the WMCC

Suggest change

If you encounter an issue with a bolt anchor or a trail maintenance issue at any Western Mass crag that the WMCC stewards, please let us know about it by filling out this form: Western Massachusetts Hardware Replacement and Crag Maintenance Reporting Form

Non-Liability Policy for Fixed Anchors and Rock Climbing:

"The WMCC shall assist landowners, land managers and other pertinent individuals regarding fixed anchor applications and make recommendations concerning fixed anchors based upon aesthetic and natural resource criteria. The custom and practice in the climbing community is for individual climber members of the community to install and maintain fixed anchors and other hardware. The WMCC itself does not install or maintain any fixed anchors or other hardware and shall make no representations or warranties regarding the safety, reliability, or suitability for use of any fixed anchors or other hardware, currently existing or installed in the future, on any climbing route or otherwise. Moreover, the WMCC shall make no representations or warranties regarding the degree of hazard or danger involved, or lack thereof, on any rock climbing route or access trail."

39 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mormon Hollow

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 26
The Chimney
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 41
Methodical Right (aka Pulchritud…
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 40
Phony Maroni
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 49
The Ramp aka Cursed Slab
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 30
First Diagonal (aka Tree Crack)
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 19
Second Diagonal
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 49
Original Sin
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 37
Tidal Wave (route 2)
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 55
The Mormon Experience
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 50
Hang Ten
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 83
Cardiac Arete
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 89
Priapism
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a V4 6B
 36
Arrhythmia
Sport, Boulder
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 16
Tunnel Vision
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 4
Excessive Force
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Chimney Mormon Hollow - Left…
 26
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Methodical Right (aka Pulch… Mormon Hollow - Right…
 41
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Phony Maroni Mormon Hollow - Right…
 40
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The Ramp aka Cursed Slab Mormon Hollow - Right…
 49
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
First Diagonal (aka Tree Cr… Mormon Hollow - Right…
 30
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Second Diagonal Mormon Hollow - Right…
 19
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Original Sin Mormon Hollow - Right…
 49
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Tidal Wave (route 2) Mormon Hollow - Left…
 37
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Mormon Experience Mormon Hollow - Right…
 55
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Hang Ten Mormon Hollow - Left…
 50
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Cardiac Arete Mormon Hollow - Left…
 83
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Priapism Mormon Hollow - Right…
 89
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Arrhythmia Mormon Hollow - Left…
 36
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a V4 6B Sport, Boulder
Tunnel Vision Mormon Hollow - Left…
 16
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Excessive Force Mormon Hollow - Left…
 4
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mormon Hollow »

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