Mormon Hollow Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 546 ft | 166 m |
GPS: |
42.5692, -72.4608 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 108,707 total · 570/month | |
Shared By: | kurthicks on Apr 6, 2009 · Updates | |
Admins: | sara pax, Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M |
Description
Home to some classic climbs on excellent gneiss, Mormon Hollow is a fine complement to other nearby popular crags (Farley and Rose Ledges) of western Massachusetts. Mormon caters to climbers of all levels and styles with a nice smattering of moderate routes, good cracks, some hard boulder problems, and a handful of steep, hard sport climbs. The beginner will enjoy the easy access to the top of the cliff and the ability to set up top ropes on some of the bolted anchors. There are nearly 20 sport climbs with grades from 5.7 to 5.13, though most are 5.10 and up. The trad is mostly 5.10 and under and is generally well protected.
The cliffs face southwest and get sun from late morning until sunset, though trees obscure the sun during the summer months. Most of the climbing is on DCR land but the far right of the cliff, to the right of Priapism, crosses onto private land. Each spring the landowner closes a few climbs if the ravens are nesting above. Please respect this closure.
This crag has been divided into 3 sections to hopefully make it easier to navigate. The first area is the Dark Star Boulder, which is the obvious large boulder you pass on the way to the crag. Behind this boulder is the stone staircase that is used to access the top of the cliff. This staircase divides the cliff into the Left Side and the Right Side.
Getting There
From the parking area, turn right at the "T" intersection. Walk about 100 meters to an old road on the left marked with a "No Parking" sign. Hike uphill on this overgrown road for about 200 meters, until it makes a sharp right turn at a flat spot. A spur trail on the left marked with a cairn leads another 100 meters or so to the crag, 10 minutes.
Per losbill: when parking at the T-intersection, be sure not to block the entrance to the two fields on either side of Davis Road.
Reporting Climbing Anchor or Trail Maintenance Issues to the WMCC
If you encounter an issue with a bolt anchor or a trail maintenance issue at any Western Mass crag that the WMCC stewards, please let us know about it by filling out this form: Western Massachusetts Hardware Replacement and Crag Maintenance Reporting Form
Non-Liability Policy for Fixed Anchors and Rock Climbing:
"The WMCC shall assist landowners, land managers and other pertinent individuals regarding fixed anchor applications and make recommendations concerning fixed anchors based upon aesthetic and natural resource criteria. The custom and practice in the climbing community is for individual climber members of the community to install and maintain fixed anchors and other hardware. The WMCC itself does not install or maintain any fixed anchors or other hardware and shall make no representations or warranties regarding the safety, reliability, or suitability for use of any fixed anchors or other hardware, currently existing or installed in the future, on any climbing route or otherwise. Moreover, the WMCC shall make no representations or warranties regarding the degree of hazard or danger involved, or lack thereof, on any rock climbing route or access trail."
Classic Climbing Routes at Mormon Hollow
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