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Gilpin Lake Amphitheatre Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Gilpin Lake Amphitheatre

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	Rumors and Lies T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Deadbeat Mom's Club T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Elevation:	10,500 ft	3,200 m
GPS:	40.756, -106.8403 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	4,474 total · 23/month
Shared By:	amerotrash H on Apr 2, 2009
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This is a north-facing, alpine crag stacked with splitters, a few roof cracks, and one mixed face climb as of now. The only climbable time is during a short summer season, as it is too cold to climb there any other time. The best time to climb is from late June-September. The first pitch is 180+ feet to a large ledge, and then it is another 75-100 foot pitch of climbing above that.

There is lots of FA potential, as I am the only one I know of who has climbed here, and it has a pretty long approach by most climbers' standards, 4 miles.

If you go, bring a big rack (doubles +) and two ropes (for the rappel). The routes are long, and there are no fixed anchors except on the mixed climb. The splitters are beautiful! A few will most certainly go at 11+. Also, because of the wilderness setting, there are currently no rap stations and no easy walkoff, so you will need to bring twin ropes or two ropes to make the rappel from the ledge.

If you go, remember you are in a WILDERNESS AREA!!! Treat the land with respect! Follow a strict trad ethic. Follow "Leave no trace"! Do not create fires! Many people come here just to be here. Don't ruin it for them and us climbers by being stupid!

Getting There

Park at Slavonia Trailhead at the end of Seedhouse Road. Hike 4 miles to Gilpin Lake, you will see the crag to the south when you get to the lake, you can't miss it. Hike around the lake following the existing trail. When the trail reaches a col, you will see a rock feature on your right. Begin traversing off the trail, and follow the base of the rock formation and gain elevation. You will be at the edge of a talus field. Traverse further right across the talus (west), and you will find a nice flat rock with a cairn which is a good place to stay the night and is (I believe) 1/4 mile from the lake. It doesn't matter, no one can see the camping spot from the lake anyway, and there is no vegetation to disturb, just follow "Leave no trace". You will have a good view of the cliff from there.