Sugarloaf Mountain Climbing

UPDATE: Sugarloaf Mountain has reopened to visitors following an attempted break-in on the property on Saturday August 19, 2023. Access to the property, including climbing routes, has been reopened with new rules and a few changes. Please refer to the website below for more information.

https://sugarloafmd.com/

ACCESS NOTE: Sugarloaf Mountain is now open for climbing. See website for additional details/updates: http://sugarloafmd.com/

Sugarloaf hosts a number of climbs from 5.0 to aid climbs. For the adventurous climbers, there are a few projects waiting to have FA's.

Most of the areas here are in the confines of the woods, thus affording relief from the hot summer heat. However because of this, the area tends to remain wet a day or two after a rain.

During the peak climbing season expect to share the area. In addition to other climbers, one can expect many hikers as well.

As for the climbing, most, if not all, can be top-roped using natural anchors. In some cases gear is preferred over using long sections of webbing to reach the natural anchors. Some areas are great for trad junkies, like Boy Scout Ledges, which also offers the new leader good beginner lead climbs. As for aid climbing, please remember this is private land and NO use of bolts, pitons and the like is allowed. Clean aid only.

The rock here is "sharp" so take care of your hands, rope, and gear. It's called "highly resistant white quartzite" mixed with other softer rock compounds.

One last note, this area is home to copperheads and timber rattlesnakes. Both species are poisonous and love the rocks. I have not seen any, but a friend saw one in 2008.

Please check out sugarloafmd.com/ for other information on the area.