Koh Yao Noi Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 44 ft | 13 m |
GPS: |
8.13855, 98.6257 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 42,054 total · 215/month | |
Shared By: | Jay Foley on Jan 15, 2009 · Updates | |
Admins: | Brian Boyd, Tao Techakanon |
You can read about the warning here. There is extensive rebolting being done by the Thaitanium Project, which has already rebolted the vast majority of popular routes in the main areas. Be informed!
Description
Many new areas have been developed on the islands surrounding Kho Yao Noi and on the northern end of the Island itself. This is one of the most low key and tranquil island destinations in Thailand and now hosts many new climbing areas as well. Located in the southern end of the Phang Nga bay. The beauty surrounding this island is breath taking. However don't expect the ease of Tonsai/Railey. Approaches require motor bike rides through steep jungle roads, hiking and or hiring a boat.The climbing logistics can be difficult to sort out, but you'll be rewarded with high quality Titanium bolted routes in a peaceful setting.
******Access Status, as of March 2019*******
What happened on Koh Yao Noi is that some government official that 'banned' it. Obviously they're not patrolling for climbers.. however, basically the rule now is, don't be seen. Cause yes you could get in trouble if you're spotted climbing. If you climb at any of the inland crags , or more simply, any wall besides Grateful Wall, you should be ok. (I know, it sucks, Grateful wall looks soooooo good. But KYN has other sweet walls too. Watchtower and Mitt are both rad.)
Also, the Paradise resort won't let you through their gate no matter how much sweet talking you do to them. This happened apparently cause climbers were swimming in their pools, trying to get away with 'beach allowance' public land. A**holes ruined it for everyone. The only way it might work is a bribe, and even then, I think their pockets are very full already and they're done with climbers. So take a left up a steep road by the gate (it's fine on the motorbikes) and follow it until you're getting close to the last downhill down to the beach. There will be a trail that takes you to dump wall and from there you can keep walking to the Mitt and big tree.
Go there, its still worth it. The island is rad, people friendly and it's much quieter than tonsai (no longtails).
******Access Status, as of March 2019*******
What happened on Koh Yao Noi is that some government official that 'banned' it. Obviously they're not patrolling for climbers.. however, basically the rule now is, don't be seen. Cause yes you could get in trouble if you're spotted climbing. If you climb at any of the inland crags , or more simply, any wall besides Grateful Wall, you should be ok. (I know, it sucks, Grateful wall looks soooooo good. But KYN has other sweet walls too. Watchtower and Mitt are both rad.)
Also, the Paradise resort won't let you through their gate no matter how much sweet talking you do to them. This happened apparently cause climbers were swimming in their pools, trying to get away with 'beach allowance' public land. A**holes ruined it for everyone. The only way it might work is a bribe, and even then, I think their pockets are very full already and they're done with climbers. So take a left up a steep road by the gate (it's fine on the motorbikes) and follow it until you're getting close to the last downhill down to the beach. There will be a trail that takes you to dump wall and from there you can keep walking to the Mitt and big tree.
Go there, its still worth it. The island is rad, people friendly and it's much quieter than tonsai (no longtails).
Getting There
As this is an Island you will need to hire a boat or catch a ferry. Ferries arrive daily from Phuket, Krabi, and Phang Nga. Getting here from Phuket is the most convenient.A daily speed boat also leaves from Railey West at 10:30am as of Dec 2008. The web sites below should help you get started.
Classic Climbing Routes at Koh Yao Noi
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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