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(2) Lower Cheeks

Washington > Central-W Casca… > Skykomish Valley > Index > Cheeks

Description

The Cheeks comprise the large white formation on the right side of the Upper Walls. It is left of the Diamond, and above and left of Duck Wall and Lookout Point.

The Lower Cheeks is the bottom half, and ends on the large ledge splitting the formation called The Beach. As this ledge is huge and easily accessed by a cable, the Lower Cheeks is perhaps the best place for toproping at Index. And like the Upper Cheeks, has routes that stay dry during rainfall.

Routes here include such classics as The Zipper, (.10b) and the spectacular Clay, (.11+), as well as several quality sport climbs such as Friendly Fire (10b), Engines of Archimedes (11d), and all Dogs Go to Heaven (.12c).

Getting There

Upon reaching the Upper Wall via the trail (about 30 minutes from the Country), you will see a water streak and/or waterfall. Turn right and cross the stream, following a path downwards and eventually back up. You will pass many routes to your left, eventually reaching Clay, which is an obvious left-facing corner. Total: about 40 minutes from the Country.

Toproping

It is easy to set up topropes on the Lower Cheeks, particularly so on the left side. Here several bolt anchors are set along the Perverse Traverse, which is easy to walk onto. Routes include

Gerberding Route
The Green Room
Heat Seeker
Friendly Fire
Engines of Archimedes

Just before the traverse, one can use the tree in front of the large block to toprope

Black Planet (5.9)
Ted, Ted Nugent (11c)

By traversing onto the Beach, one can rap down to the anchors atop P1 of Clay and TR that route. Also, the nearby Pressure Drop Wall has several classic crack lines that are easily TRed.

Also, if you climb P1 of The Zipper (10b), you can TR with one rope three other routes on the slab.

Routes from Left to Right

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 20
Gerberding Route
Trad, TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 20
The Green Room
Trad, TR
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 9
Heat Seeker
Trad, TR
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 11
Infinite Jest
Sport, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 23
Friendly Fire
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 14
Engines of Archimedes
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 31
Clay
Trad 2 pitches
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 6
All Dogs Go to Heaven
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
 9
Fiction
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 55
The Zipper
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A2
 2
The Zipper (Complete Aid)
Trad, Aid 6 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 2
Active Boys Puke a Lot
Trad, Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 1
Tango for Two
Trad
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 8
Attractive Nuisance
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 1
Extended Play
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 4
Not Sheer Strength
Sport
5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
 1
Open Project: Peer Pressure
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 27
Fairies Wear Boots
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 20
The Wizard
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 10
Cornucopia
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 5
Sleeping Village
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 23
Bravo Jean Marc
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 8
Snowblind
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Changes
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
Into the Void
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 7
Supernaught
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 3
Electric Funeral
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 2
Shamans Gooch
Trad
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 5
Colins Gooch
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Gerberding Route
 20
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
The Green Room
 20
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, TR
Heat Seeker
 9
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, TR
Infinite Jest
 11
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport, TR
Friendly Fire
 23
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Engines of Archimedes
 14
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Clay
 31
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 2 pitches
All Dogs Go to Heaven
 6
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Fiction
 9
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R Trad
The Zipper
 55
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
The Zipper (Complete Aid)
 2
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A2 Trad, Aid 6 pitches
Active Boys Puke a Lot
 2
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport
Tango for Two
 1
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Attractive Nuisance
 8
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Extended Play
 1
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Not Sheer Strength
 4
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Open Project: Peer Pressure
 1
5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b Sport
Fairies Wear Boots
 27
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
The Wizard
 20
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Cornucopia
 10
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Sleeping Village
 5
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Bravo Jean Marc
 23
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Snowblind
 8
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Changes
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Into the Void
 5
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Supernaught
 7
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Electric Funeral
 3
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Shamans Gooch
 2
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad
Colins Gooch
 5
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Zipper (10b), near anchor.
[Hide Photo] Zipper (10b), near anchor.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

saign charlestein
Tacoma WA
[Hide Comment] Can these routes be climbed with a 60 or do I need to bring a 70m up here? Thanks Aug 20, 2020
Nate Redon
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] I gave everything from Cornucopia to Electric Funeral a quick scrub last week. Everything you need is sparkly clean again. May 13, 2021
James C
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] Gerberding anchor had no lowering hardware, and it appeared neither did Green Room. There were just fixe hangers. Is this the case for the rest of the area? Jun 8, 2024