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Lower Cheeks Rock Climbing
Routes in (2) Lower Cheeks
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Active Boys Puke a Lot T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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All Dogs Go to Heaven S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Attractive Nuisance S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bravo Jean Marc T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Changes T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Clay T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Colins Gooch T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Cornucopia T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Electric Funeral T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Engines of Archimedes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Extended Play S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Fairies Wear Boots T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Fiction T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Friendly Fire S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gerberding Route T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Green Room, The T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Heat Seeker T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Infinite Jest S,TR 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Into the Void T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Not Sheer Strength S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Open Project: Peer Pressure S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Shamans Gooch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Sleeping Village T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Snowblind T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Supernaught T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Tango for Two T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Wizard, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Zipper (Complete Aid), The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A2 |
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Zipper, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Elevation: | 1,360 ft | 415 m |
| GPS: |
47.82399, -121.56548 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 50,826 total · 263/month | |
| Shared By: | Drewsky on Dec 30, 2008 | |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
The Cheeks comprise the large white formation on the right side of the Upper Walls. It is left of the Diamond, and above and left of Duck Wall and Lookout Point.
The Lower Cheeks is the bottom half, and ends on the large ledge splitting the formation called The Beach. As this ledge is huge and easily accessed by a cable, the Lower Cheeks is perhaps the best place for toproping at Index. And like the Upper Cheeks, has routes that stay dry during rainfall.
Routes here include such classics as The Zipper, (.10b) and the spectacular Clay, (.11+), as well as several quality sport climbs such as Friendly Fire (10b), Engines of Archimedes (11d), and all Dogs Go to Heaven (.12c).
The Lower Cheeks is the bottom half, and ends on the large ledge splitting the formation called The Beach. As this ledge is huge and easily accessed by a cable, the Lower Cheeks is perhaps the best place for toproping at Index. And like the Upper Cheeks, has routes that stay dry during rainfall.
Routes here include such classics as The Zipper, (.10b) and the spectacular Clay, (.11+), as well as several quality sport climbs such as Friendly Fire (10b), Engines of Archimedes (11d), and all Dogs Go to Heaven (.12c).
Getting There
Upon reaching the Upper Wall via the trail (about 30 minutes from the Country), you will see a water streak and/or waterfall. Turn right and cross the stream, following a path downwards and eventually back up. You will pass many routes to your left, eventually reaching Clay, which is an obvious left-facing corner. Total: about 40 minutes from the Country.
Toproping
It is easy to set up topropes on the Lower Cheeks, particularly so on the left side. Here several bolt anchors are set along the Perverse Traverse, which is easy to walk onto. Routes include
Gerberding Route
The Green Room
Heat Seeker
Friendly Fire
Engines of Archimedes
Just before the traverse, one can use the tree in front of the large block to toprope
Black Planet (5.9)
Ted, Ted Nugent (11c)
By traversing onto the Beach, one can rap down to the anchors atop P1 of Clay and TR that route. Also, the nearby Pressure Drop Wall has several classic crack lines that are easily TRed.
Also, if you climb P1 of The Zipper (10b), you can TR with one rope three other routes on the slab.
Gerberding Route
The Green Room
Heat Seeker
Friendly Fire
Engines of Archimedes
Just before the traverse, one can use the tree in front of the large block to toprope
Black Planet (5.9)
Ted, Ted Nugent (11c)
By traversing onto the Beach, one can rap down to the anchors atop P1 of Clay and TR that route. Also, the nearby Pressure Drop Wall has several classic crack lines that are easily TRed.
Also, if you climb P1 of The Zipper (10b), you can TR with one rope three other routes on the slab.
Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Cheeks
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
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Guidebooks (11)
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