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(c) Earwax Wall

Washington > Central-W Casca… > Skykomish Valley > Index > Upper Town Wall

Description

This wall is semi-shaded and can be a good summer option. The rock here lends itself to positive face climbing and most of the routes are just under vertical or overhung. There are at least a dozen quality routes here. They range from the friendly, positive Sideshow (.10c/d) and Black Flag (.10+) to the micro-edging testpieces like Soul on Ice (.12c) and the ultra-thin The Antidote (.13-). Since when were .12c and .13- "testpieces" in this day and age, you ask? Well, since you tried them at Index! There are a couple of cracks as well: the uber-classic Tree-studded House of Helene, Earwax, and Killslug.

Getting There

Located on the far left side of the main upper wall. Approach via the upper wall trail. At one point the trail surmounts a step via a fixed rope. The Biology of Small Appliances (.12) arete is the first feature encountered. It should be noted that this continues to be a drop zone for trash from *ahem* "4WD motor sports enthusiasts" which consists mostly of Bud Light (TM) and Natural Ice (TM) cans but can include the occasional truck canopy or live firecracker. People have also allegedly been shot at while climbing on the Upper Walls in the past, although (luckily!) this does not seem to be a continuing issue. Use caution on the trail, particularly under the Tempitchuous area, which is a little ways before reaching Earwax wall proper.

Routes from Left to Right

5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 2
Sweatshop
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 2
Tree-studded House of Helene
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 41
The Black Flag of the Schwarzer…
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 33
Sideshow
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 1
Killslug
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 7
Slugshow
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 18
Earwax
Trad
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 1
Young Cynics
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 23
Raggedy Andy
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 14
Raggedy Anne
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 4
Soul on Ice
Sport
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 3
Empire of the Sun
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 2
The Antidote
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 7
The Biology of Small Appliances
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 2
Perfect Perm
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sweatshop
 2
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Tree-studded House of Helene
 2
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
The Black Flag of the Schwa…
 41
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Sideshow
 33
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Killslug
 1
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Slugshow
 7
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Earwax
 18
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Young Cynics
 1
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Raggedy Andy
 23
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Raggedy Anne
 14
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Soul on Ice
 4
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Empire of the Sun
 3
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
The Antidote
 2
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
The Biology of Small Applia…
 7
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
Perfect Perm
 2
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jon Nelson on ... Tree-studded House of Helene. Early 1980s. Photo by Greg Olsen
[Hide Photo] Jon Nelson on ... Tree-studded House of Helene. Early 1980s. Photo by Greg Olsen