All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > State Highway 313 > Hell Roaring Canyon

The Witch Rock Climbing

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Routes in The Witch

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Midnight Rider T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

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GPS:	38.59057, -109.94987 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	6,205 total · 32/month
Shared By:	Brad Brandewie on Dec 9, 2008
Admins:	slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Permits are now required for climbing in Hell Roaring and Mineral Canyons. See section below for details. Details

These canyons are important habitat for a variety of wildlife, including raptors such as the Mexican spotted owl, golden eagle and the only herd of native desert bighorn sheep in Utah. In response to a recent increase of recreational activity impacting wildlife habitat, the Moab BLM is implementing a rule to restrict aerial and roped activities in the Hell Roaring and Mineral canyons. The rule includes a permit requirement for all climbing below the canyon rims. The decision was reached after significant study, and environmental assessment including the consideration of public comments.

Mineral and Hell Roaring climbing permits must be obtained at least 48 hours in advance. Permit rules and seasons vary by location of the climb and are only available for the following towers: North and South Kachina, Witch, Warlock, and Cauldron Towers, and Gollum. The lower portion of both canyons is also included in the permitted locations. A map will be provided to the permit holder along with further stipulations upon issuance. The environmental analysis including a map of the entire restricted area can be viewed on:

eplanning.blm.gov/eplanning…

For more information or to obtain a permit contact the BLM Moab Field Office by email at blm_ut_mb_srp@blm.gov.

To read the decision record including the Environmental Assessment for the rule, visit the federal register.

federalregister.gov/documen…

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

The Witch, The Cauldrons and The Warlock are nestled in a cirque on the southern edge of Hell Roaring Canyon about three miles from the Green River. Named by Ron Olevsky who made the first ascent on Halloween, this 300 foot tower offers a fine outing on mostly solid rock and boasts an excellent second pitch up a beautiful, stemming corner. At least one other route has been done on the Witch though information on that route remains elusive. When you climb here, think about how remote it would feel if it was the mid 80s and you were alone and had approached from the Green River as was the case on the first ascent.

This areas is under thread of development by the oil and gas industry.

Getting There

Although these formations were originally approached from the Green River via an old Uranium prospectors road that explored Hell Roaring Canyon, these towers are best approached by rappelling in from the rim. See Hell Roaring Canyon page for specific directions.