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Owl Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Owl Rock

1. East Wall 13

2. B'Owl Obstruction Wall 6

3. Owlpine Pillar 1

4. North Wall 5

5. West Face 10

6. Baby Bird Wall 1

7. Celebrity Wall 5

Owl Boulders 39

Pellets Bouldering, The 10

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Elevation:	5,395 ft	1,644 m
GPS:	39.36941, -119.69506 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	55,088 total · 275/month
Shared By:	ryanmakescoffee on Nov 21, 2008 · Updates
Admins:	Lurk Er, Justin Johnsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Reno's Biggest Little Sport Crag. Owl Rock hosts a variety of sport climbs from 5.5-5.12 and it is possible to chase shade or sun all day long. The climbing here is fun! Incut and flat edges, pockets, huecos, aretes, and even the occasional crack characterize the routes. All bolted routes are equipped with mussy hooks allowing easy laps and toproping. All routes can be climbed with 10 draws and a 60m rope.

Individual walls are numbered moving from left to right along the base, although the North Wall is the first encountered on the main approach trail. There is bouldering in the area as well. The Owl Boulders sit on the West and South hillsides next to Owl Rock and feature a variety of routes with everything from slab to roof cracks. The Pellets are on a plateau across the road from Owl Rock and have both low traverses and highballs.

This area is year round access and sits on BLM land. Camping is possible anywhere in the canyon. Be aware of other land users nearby, mainly target shooters and ATV riders. Drive slowly near homes on Toll Rd. and watch out for feral horses. Please avoid the road/trails/crag if it is muddy though. This is a high desert environment and the land is fragile. Cutting switchbacks will worsen erosion and just isn't nice. Stay on the obvious existing trails.

While many loose blocks and flakes have been removed, some still exist. Wear a helmet. Climbing has occurred here for decades, from aid practice in the 70's to UNR climbing club topropes in the 90's. The recent cleaning and bolting has re-imagined this small hunk of desert rock into a local gem. While probably not a roadtrip destination, Owl Rock is great for after-work pitches and getting out without the mountain commute.

Getting There

From South Reno take 395 South to the intersection with 341 and turn left (East) on 341 toward the base of Geiger Grade, Go right through the immediate round about and 1/2 a mile further turn right at the stop light for Toll RD, Follow Toll RD for a couple miles past all of the suburban neighborhoods until the road turns to broken pavement and dirt, From here you continue on Toll RD for another 1 1/2 miles staying straight past a private property sign (this is a rural neighborhood however Toll RD is a public road to my knowledge, common sense and respect apply), Owl Rock will come into sight ahead and on your right, If you have 4x4 you can drive nearly right to the base...

Approach Trail

There is a trail that begins behind the last target shooting stump. It switchbacks up the WNW hillside. Roughly halfway up there is a right fork that leads towards The Owl Boulders. Otherwise continue up and left towards the main cliffs. Most of the trail is bordered by logs or branches on the ground; if you are stepping over wood then you are off trail. Please stay on the trail and avoid cutting switchbacks or finding your own trail. This is a very sensitive high desert environment and footprints last a long time here.

Access Issue - Golden Eagle Nesting

There is an intermittent golden eagle nest site at the East Wall area. It is 2/3 of the way up the route "Drive By Hooting". The Nevada Department Of Wildlife is aware of this nest and is monitoring the site annually. Golden eagles only nest once per year, usually in the late winter or early spring. It is possible that route or area closures may occur if eagles are actively nesting. Golden eagles are a federally protected species and very sensitive to human disturbance. Signage will be placed along the trail by NDOW if there is active eagle nesting. If you see an eagle in the nest and there is no trail signage, please avoid the area and notify NDOW.

2023 Season Update:

The nest was used this spring but appears abandoned. 2 eggs remain in the nest as of 4/17. NDOW has assessed the site and there are no restrictions on climbing at the East Wall for the rest of 2023. Regardless, please do not disturb the existing nest as it may be used next year.

90 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Owl Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 18 ● Edgar Owllan Poe Sport 7. Celebrity Wall
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 21 ● Owljazeera Sport 5. W Face
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 17 ● Tuowlumne Slab Sport 5. W Face
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 19 ● Too Hoot To Handle Sport 1. E Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 20 ● It's Owl In Your Head Sport 4. N Wall
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 28 ● Owlelujah Sport 5. W Face
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 23 ● See You Later Owligator Sport 2. B'Owl Obstruction…
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 17 ● Gaining Owltitude Sport 4. N Wall
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 16 ● Fledge Your Bets Sport 1. E Wall
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 30 ● Owl Be Thy Name Sport 5. W Face
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 13 ● Fowl Play Sport 5. W Face
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 20 ● Hoot And Holler Sport 4. N Wall
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 16 ● Drive By Hooting Sport 1. E Wall
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 13 ● Owl Be Back Sport 5. W Face
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b 12 ● Totowlitarian Regime Sport 1. E Wall