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Hidden Heavenly Slab

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Tanners Gulch
Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description

This might be the some of the best rock in Tanners. The low angle slab looks foreshortened from the ground, it's 200+ feet long and after that it rears up into a nice headwall in places. The features on this slab are amazing, it reminds me of the City of Rocks in places. Black streaks and patina abound on it.

This area holds moderate slab pitches and a few challenging sport pitches too. The belays are all on really cool ledges with awesome views down Tanners gulch and across the canyon.

Snowpack leaves dirt and rocks here and there down lower so be on your toes. The rock is broken at the bottom but seems to climb enjoyably.

Most of the routes on the right hand side (south) have sub-belays at a common ledge at about 30 feet up. This is so you can see and hear your leader. I recommend using it for the first few times up there,

The pine tree in the left hand corner on the slab had some webbing on it so tight I had a hard time getting my knife behind it to cut it loose as the bark was growing around it. The tree bears that webbing scar. This was one of two pieces of webbing we found in the canyon while climbing.

The entire area was put up ground first.

Getting There

Hike all the way up the gulch. Passing Pirate Treasure is a obvious low angle slab with a steep broken start and a steep headwall with black streaks. This is the Hidden Heavenly Slab.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
My God, Your God
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 2
Paradise on Earth
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
 1
Personal Jihad
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 12
6 Ways From Sunday
Trad 5 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 2
Resurrection to Eternal Life
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 12
Indie Dog Memorial Route
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 3
Apostate Apsotle
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 17
Lonely Sinner
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 1
Black Sabbath
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1
Altered Alter Boy
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
East Coast Insecurities
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 79
The 7th Way
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 42
North of Heaven
Trad 3 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 2
Guardian Angel
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
Son of a Preacher Man
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 1
Pudgy Pastor
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 16
Golden Plates
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
Mischievous Moroni
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 42
All About The Volume
Trad 3 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 2
Playa Hater
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
Siberian Sinkhole
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
My God, Your God
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Paradise on Earth
 2
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Personal Jihad
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X Trad 2 pitches
6 Ways From Sunday
 12
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
Resurrection to Eternal Life
 2
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Indie Dog Memorial Route
 12
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Apostate Apsotle
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad
Lonely Sinner
 17
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Black Sabbath
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad
Altered Alter Boy
 1
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
East Coast Insecurities
 12
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
The 7th Way
 79
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
North of Heaven
 42
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Guardian Angel
 2
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Son of a Preacher Man
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Pudgy Pastor
 1
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Golden Plates
 16
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Mischievous Moroni
 14
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
All About The Volume
 42
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Playa Hater
 2
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 3 pitches
Siberian Sinkhole
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Hidden Heavenly Slab topo.
[Hide Photo] The Hidden Heavenly Slab topo.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
[Hide Comment] This is a great crag! I've done 7th Way and All About Volume and I can say these are some of the best multi-pitch outings in Tanners, if not LCC. Thanks to TP, Luke and crew for pioneering these sweet lines. Aug 12, 2017
[Hide Comment] This is an excellent place for face climbers to learn how to climb slab:
1) Most of the actual slab moves are either relatively easy or a boulder problem right by a bolt, followed by easier climbing.
2) Your hands and/or feet are almost always on a solid edge, jug or rail.
3) The intermittent gear and bolts make you learn the rhythm of following features and looking for pro.
4) You'll stay on route if you keep telling yourself, "This was drilled ground up, on lead so they followed the best features."

These routes all have character and are worth doing in their entirety. But the slabby pitches of most of them could be used as a concentrated tutorial for helping a face climber start getting their head together for the smoother slabs down low in the canyon. Aug 8, 2021