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Switzerland

International > Europe

Description

Quite possibly the best country in the world for a climber to visit. Take your pick: granite, limestone, or gneiss - all of it splitter, and most of it bolted. There are big walls, high peaks, and fun crags. The hut system is great, providing quick access to climbs and hearty fare at a reasonable price.  The alpine approaches can include some impressive vertical.  Be sure your legs are as fit as your fingers.

Beyond the climbing, Switzerland offers a unique opportunity to sample Italian, French, and German language, cuisine, and culture in its various regions. Well worth a visit!

Goals of these pages

There is so much rock in Switzerland. Too much for one website to describe comprehensively! The goal of these pages is to document many of the most worthwhile climbing areas (sport, trad; alpine and single pitch, and a bit of bouldering) and with useful details for some of the best routes. Hopefully this will be useful for visitors in getting oriented.

That said, if you want to add routes for your ticklist, please go ahead!

A note on geographic organization:

Here the areas are listed alphabetically, but other information can be found about areas organized:

- by canton ( topodb.ch)

- by region and type of climbing 

- by north, east, south, west (the Filidor guidebooks, and chmoser.ch/ )

More reference websites:

Swiss Alpine Club guidebooks - Climbing and alpinism guidebooks by the Swiss Alpine Club. Not all are in English but many are.

UKClimbing - look at logbook for crags (e.g., Salbit climbs )

Gipfelbuch - Great for conditions on alpine routes

Chmoser - Excellent personal logbook of a dedicated climber, with detailed descriptions of some routes (in German)

Scalamalade-areas - Overview of some areas, no detailed route information, but good for getting ideas of where to go

Topodb.ch - List of climbing routes by canton, region, area, sometimes with topos

hikr.org - Some alpine routes / many peaks detailed here, with condition reports

summitpost.org  - Some mountains / crags detailed here

kletterportal.ch - for finding partners

camptocamp.org - Alpine focused site, good for finding climbing near a specific point

Guidebooks

There are a ton of books you could get. For visiting climbers interested in alpine multipitch tours and single pitch sport climbing, the most useful books are the Filidor series, which divides the country into four broad regions (east, west, Jura, and south).

The series is divided into 'Plaisir' and 'Extrem' volumes, with the former covering areas emphasizing up to 6b (5.10b) climbing, and the latter covering areas dominated by the harder climbs. But plaisir areas still include topos for climbs up to 7a (5.11d) and even harder, while extrem areas may still have some 5c climbs in there.

?Plaisir West? and ?Plaisir Ost? might be the two most useful books to start with. Newer and forthcoming versions have English, otherwise you can more or less figure it out.

The Swiss Alpine Club has its own series of guidebooks, which are massive, detailed, and pricy. These are generally more localized by canton, but great references if you know exactly where you want to go.

And then there are specialized books for areas like Gastlosen in Bern, Valsertal in Grabünden, or the canton of Glarus.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

1950's Sunrise on the Matterhorn from town
[Hide Photo] 1950's Sunrise on the Matterhorn from town
It was nice to stop and have a beer while on my hike at the base of the Eiger.
[Hide Photo] It was nice to stop and have a beer while on my hike at the base of the Eiger.
Summit Matterhorn 1960, Marianne Marquardt
[Hide Photo] Summit Matterhorn 1960, Marianne Marquardt
View from Zermat after hiking down.
[Hide Photo] View from Zermat after hiking down.
The granite walls of Salbit - from the approach.
[Hide Photo] The granite walls of Salbit - from the approach.
The Eiger
[Hide Photo] The Eiger
Nothing says "Switzerland" better than this.
[Hide Photo] Nothing says "Switzerland" better than this.
Matterhorn Summit 1960’s ascent
[Hide Photo] Matterhorn Summit 1960’s ascent
Schrattenflue in canton Lucerne
[Hide Photo] Schrattenflue in canton Lucerne
Engelhorner hut.  One of many great Swiss huts right next to the climbing area.
[Hide Photo] Engelhorner hut. One of many great Swiss huts right next to the climbing area.
The Eiger
[Hide Photo] The Eiger
Salbit bridge from the Voralp valley
[Hide Photo] Salbit bridge from the Voralp valley

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I am from Switzerland and I am in love with trad climbing. It is not easy to get information about trad climbs here at all. We do not have a DB like UK climbing... We do have dozens of climbing guides for bolted sport stuff but none for trad climbs (except the "keep wild" guide which only includes long alpine climbs).

swizzy, so much rock - and even more bolts...

go climbing in switzerland: besides the alpine routes you just finde bolted sport climbing. Ask people about nice crags to trad climb single pitches - they'll starr at you like your nuts.

we would have so much of nice solid rock for trad climbing (göschenen, grimsel, alto-ticino just to mention some areas) there is no big trad scene, just some freaks who do like theire E8 stuff at secret spots, the alpinists who do the multipitches - but the rest is sport climbers!

For me, a swiss guy want to climb moderate trad routes let's say one to three pitches, I have to finde them myself.

So thats what I do. Maybe I'll put up some info here sometime...

greez from swizzy Oct 17, 2008
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
[Hide Comment] greez,
I was only in Switzerland for two weeks and had no problem finding long moderate trad routes. What about the Engelhorner?
Brian

Nov 21, 2008
David Hertel
Haines, Alaska
[Hide Comment] Just curious why there is no info on MP about the Eiger other than a handfull of people who snapped a photo from Grindelwald (myself included)? It seems to me that the most notorious face in climbing would have more info posted about it on an online climbing community. It is my dream to climb the north face (via the 1938 route) and I would like to be a mountain guide in Switzerland at some point in my life. These dreams are lofty indeed, but I'll get there eventually. I'm just a little dissapointed that there is no more information on the Eiger here. I have tons of other resources for the face, but it would be nice to see something posted on MP about it Jan 11, 2011
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
[Hide Comment] David,

The database is built by the users. The Eiger is not in the database, because none of our users have climbed it, (or if they have, they haven't bothered to submit it). Perhaps once you do it you can add it to the database! In the mean time, this mountainproject.com/v/inter… is about the the closest thing we've got. Hope its enough to get your palms sweaty. Jan 12, 2011
David Hertel
Haines, Alaska
[Hide Comment] I shall look forward to putting the 1938 route on MP once I climb it, providing it's not up before I get to it. I can barely wait! Jan 14, 2011
James Garrett
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] The latest Plaisir West, Plaisir Selection, and Swiss Extreme West are all translated into English. The Plaisir Ost will also soon be available as a second updated edition and also in English. Aug 20, 2012
[Hide Comment] Hey Friends!

Looking for a climbing partner for the summer! I'm located in Gryon in the south east part of Switzerland. I'd be psyched to make it over to Cham for some alpine objectives. Don't hesitate to hit me up. I've got rope, rack, and glacier gear. Let's get it. Jun 19, 2015
old5ten
Sunny Slopes + Berkeley, CA
[Hide Comment] 'Walls tend to be big, and if you're coming from North America, the vertical relief will take some getting used to.' huh??? Oct 26, 2016
Fabien M
Cannes
[Hide Comment] To comment on what Marco said, all trad routes can be found either on camptocamp.org (french) or on the Club Alpin Suisse mountaineering guidebooks (french and german) they sell them all on their website (or in store once in the country) here is just one example: sac-cas.ch/fr/shop/livres/d… Feb 27, 2020