Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Hole in the Wall

Colorado > S Platte > Devil's Head
Warning Access Issue: Road and Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

The north-facing crag in the gully to the right of Crag Ranch is stacked with 5.10 to low 5.12 routes, many of which require some gear. The dark rock and mossy sections likely put off a lot of climbers, but don't be fooled. The cracks and face holds are clean—at least on the well-traveled routes—and the climbing is excellent. All-day shade makes for a great escape on hot days.

Getting There

Climb up the steep gully right of Crag Ranch.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 1
● Unknown Trad
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
● Transgression
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
● Hole in the Wall
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 2
● Swiss Cheese
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 31
● Dragonslayer
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 2
● Chicken Lips
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 43
● The Apprentice
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 33
● Protege
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
● The Poacher
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 12
● The Mentor
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 9
● The Warden
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 1
● Au Natural
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Unknown Trad
 1
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad
● Transgression
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Hole in the Wall
 4
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
● Swiss Cheese
 2
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
● Dragonslayer
 31
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● Chicken Lips
 2
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad, TR
● The Apprentice
 43
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Protege
 33
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● The Poacher
 6
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● The Mentor
 12
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● The Warden
 9
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Au Natural
 1
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Contemplating the twin cracks.
[Hide Photo] Contemplating the twin cracks.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

slim

[Hide Comment] I have to admit, when we got to the base of this wall and looked up at the vertical moss carpet, my first thought was that the guidebook author must have been hitting the electric Koolaid pretty hard when he was doling out the stars. However, it quickly became apparent that there is really good climbing on this wall. Nice variety in the 10 to 12 range, some sport, some gear, some mixed. The rock is ultra-featured, almost to the point that it feels kind of weird to tug on granite this way. Aug 29, 2011
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] A pretty reasonable section of rock. Even on the routes that look dirty, the holds are pretty clean, and they climb well.

This one is worth a visit and keeps shade until at least mid-afternoon. Jun 24, 2021