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Upper Slab and Upper Wall

Maine > -Acadia NP > S Bubble
Warning Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons DetailsDrop down

Description

This is were all the magic happens. At the top of lower slab/ bottom of Upper slab is a nice ledge to start your climbs (2 pitch trad). A great place for budding trad climbers to get good work in.

When you finish the climbs here, follow a 4th class scramble up to top of cliff, then follow the hikers trail down and to the left side of the cliff. At about the tree line, be sure to keep an eye out for the faint hiker trail on the left that gets you back to the Upper Slab. If not, it means a bit more hiking around in those crampy shoes.

Getting There

continue past Lower Slab up trail to an obvious ledge.

Routes from Left to Right

Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13
 23
Ancient Via Ferrata
Trad 3 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 23
Upper Slab Routes
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Faust
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 37
Gargoyle
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 10
Escape Hatch
Trad
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
 2
Boney Fingers
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 46
Moraviana
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 26
Off-Width Chimney
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ancient Via Ferrata
 23
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Upper Slab Routes
 23
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
Faust
 8
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Gargoyle
 37
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Escape Hatch
 10
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Boney Fingers
 2
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Moraviana
 46
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Off-Width Chimney
 26
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jenn is leading "Off-Width Chimney". The top of "Moraviana" is the crack to her left.
[Hide Photo] Jenn is leading "Off-Width Chimney". The top of "Moraviana" is the crack to her left.
Start climb on Lower Slabs, top of P2 (of 3).
[Hide Photo] Start climb on Lower Slabs, top of P2 (of 3).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Climbed here in november, and fallen leaves made it hard to find the hikers trail. We cut right and scrambled along the old rusted and retired walking trail, with ancient fixed protection from the early 1900s. Got back to the top of the upper slab and rap'd out. Feb 22, 2010
[Hide Comment] Climbed a route earlier today that I don't see marked here. It seemed like it shared anchors with Escape Hatch (steel chain to start, black rope to finish) but it went way around to the right.

Followed the Ancient Via Ferrata for about 30ft to the right from the belay station, then climbed a corner and a crack behind a large boulder, then went left a bit to the anchor. It was my first time in the area, so if someone who knows a bit more about this could let me know the name of the route, that would be great! Very fun route despite a lot of rope drag, would grade it around a 5.4 Jul 28, 2019